OK you now use the handle bars to make it easier to keep balance.
It looks good Paul. I hope to see it sometime and try it.
I want to see if it is less nervous and less likely to tilt when not wanted if I stiffen the tilt response , I cannot go much harder with M10 fastening only swapping out for 2 x 203 kgI'll be very interested in your experiences with the stiffer elastomers. It'll be interesting to see what, if any difference is made.
Usually you see this phrase from people who have built a :-Regarding a trike feeling like a two wheeler:-
If you make a trike that feels exactly like a two wheeler then what advantage does that trike actually offer? Why suffer the weight of the trike for it to feel just like a two wheeler? Shouldn't it behave differently in at least one or more respects to make it worth the effort? I'm thinking here of primarily being able to hold it up at a stop without putting a foot down. If it behaves 100% like a two wheeler then the only "advantage" is the coolness factor of having a third wheel yet still tilt and whilst I've certainly employed that reason myself to justify my own designs I know that reason isn't enough for everyone.
Yes see post I made in your thread on a failed Mosquito , I have to many other things try to pursue a likely lemon at this stage...The Mosquito 4 bar link movement is controlled, on the Mosquito, by the bars so removing that control mechanism to try to move it by weight shift and balance is going to be a tough ask Paul especially as it doesn't swing in a simple arc. I'm not saying such control is impossible, just that you'd be starting from a position of what I suspect is basic principles not being in your favour.
As my tilt angle is infinite ? ie. parallel to the ground it does not contact the ground anywhere in my line of sightIt looks like if the tilt axis doesn't intersect the front contact patch then tilt will change the python pivot angle. If the tilt axis hits the road ahead of the tyre then tilt will cause the front to drop increasing the python pivot angle.
Don't say that ...I can't ride a 2 wheeled Python , infact I have one in the bike shed I was going to gift on here to anyone who wants to take it on !If the tilt angle does hit the front contact patch the python should then behave like a two wheeled python.
Popshot/Emeil/DannyC
Any speculation if I kept the 2 stiff dampers and rode it without the front rod end bearing at all ?
Paul
I agree, there will be MORE free movement/play in the system.Popshot/Emeil/DannyC
Any speculation if I kept the 2 stiff dampers and rode it without the front rod end bearing at all ?
Paul
We need a "ride-report" don't we? Glad you got it done OK.Ok getting a bit of tilter envy ?
Popshot is on his 3rd and I have only had a brief [ if unsuccessful foray into iLean ] so I had a better but undeveloped iLean rear end this would give me more width than first attempt and allow for elastomer damping ......
What can possibly go wrong ?
2 x BB and a short frame , I cut down some pedal cranks and fitted them to the inside tapers , I then cut some 1" tubing to join them together bit of flappy disc latter and they fit Hooray you say .
BUT
I had not welded the original parts accurately enough and so it would not turn.
Answer cut through the square cross tube and do some bending [ to the left of the B ] now it turns freely.
3 welds then one each end of the round tube and one 3 sides of the square tube , ' jobs a goodun '
The pedal cranks are that way around for welding to get the tapers inline then one will be reversed.
So the observant amongst you will notice I mentioned elastomer damping ? so where does that figure ?
One option is like this to bind it with old inner tubes ?
The other option would be to introduce one or more elastomer's between the centre of the joining tube and the square frame , if there is room ?
it is disassembla-ble which helps one of the BB's can come out from the side and the centre tube is then freed , this allows drilled and welding to the central tube/
Will it work ?
Well it will tilt real easy ! the whole trike will tilt unlike the current arrangement , so I may not be able to ride it although the added width and the damping should all help tame it...
Why am I trying it ?
Well in all honesty it is simpler than the current tilter and is easier to make it will just bolt to any Python spine , probably be made much lighter and can be made quite compact and has a suspension effect ?
Living on the wild side Paul
Ok getting a bit of tilter envy ?
Popshot is on his 3rd and I have only had a brief [ if unsuccessful foray into iLean ] so I had a better but undeveloped iLean rear end this would give me more width than first attempt and allow for elastomer damping ......
What can possibly go wrong ?
2 x BB and a short frame , I cut down some pedal cranks and fitted them to the inside tapers , I then cut some 1" tubing to join them together bit of flappy disc latter and they fit Hooray you say .
BUT
I had not welded the original parts accurately enough and so it would not turn.
Answer cut through the square cross tube and do some bending [ to the left of the B ] now it turns freely.
3 welds then one each end of the round tube and one 3 sides of the square tube , ' jobs a goodun '
The pedal cranks are that way around for welding to get the tapers inline then one will be reversed.
So the observant amongst you will notice I mentioned elastomer damping ? so where does that figure ?
One option is like this to bind it with old inner tubes ?
The other option would be to introduce one or more elastomer's between the centre of the joining tube and the square frame , if there is room ?
it is disassembla-ble which helps one of the BB's can come out from the side and the centre tube is then freed , this allows drilled and welding to the central tube/
Will it work ?
Well it will tilt real easy ! the whole trike will tilt unlike the current arrangement , so I may not be able to ride it although the added width and the damping should all help tame it...
Why am I trying it ?
Well in all honesty it is simpler than the current tilter and is easier to make it will just bolt to any Python spine , probably be made much lighter and can be made quite compact and has a suspension effect ?
Living on the wild side Paul
In all fairness Paul my first was an unmitigated failure and I've yet to finish the 3rd so I've only made 1.5 tilters.
I'm not sure you want any resistance on an ilean. The whole ethos of an ilean is it's completely free to tilt and rides exactly like a two wheeler, requiring balancing but with the advantage of having some suspension effect at the rear. The wider the ilean the greater the suspension effect but the less it will tilt. From some guesstimation of the width of that set-up you look to have somewhere around 26 degrees of tilt in it.
I have cranks between 140mm and 170mm to try , I will only try 180' as that is what the elastomer will be added for.I've assumed 175mm cranks and 700mm between the tyres centres. If I'm out, and that's likely, then you'll want to put your own figures into a triangle calculator to see your actual max lean. Width between tyres on one side - 2 x crank length on another with 90 degree angle between those sides.
It's quite arguable as to what minimum maximum lean you need but I'd open the bidding with 30 degrees. You can recover more lean by lengthening the cranks if you require a minimum width though the ones on your ilean look to be alloy.