Warrior trike- 1st build

I would not buy any brakes where they are not a high street name OR you have bought at least a couple of sets of pads at the same time.

I found when I had worn the pads down it was impossible to get replacements as they were no longer manufactured/sold YMMV

Paul
 
I would not buy any brakes where they are not a high street name OR you have bought at least a couple of sets of pads at the same time.

I found when I had worn the pads down it was impossible to get replacements as they were no longer manufactured/sold YMMV

Paul


I did my homework and researched the hell out of them before pulling the trigger.

Lots of comments about being impressed with them and their price.

Also, supposedly they take standard shimano deore brake pads.
 
Remembered a couple hours later that there was part of a damaged steel bike frame somewhere in my garage.

Originally was planning on an attempt at melting it for a future casting project.

It was in piss poor shape, but eventually got the bottom bracket from it. Caveat though the tubes coming off it were bent out of shape near the base.

I'm going to attempt to weld a steel tube to it and the bracket cutouts without warping the thread.

Will be threading in the axle that was in the aluminum bottom bracket.

If I'm successful, great. If not, oh well.

 
Screw in some unwanted cups before welding to prevent any potential issue.

Planning on doing that with the original caps.

Also going to grind, file and sand it into a flat faced cylinder.

A bit of sheet metal welded over the tube holes should work to seal it.
 
Placed an order for that bottom bracket yesterday. Also found a used fork that's a pretty close match to one I already have. Added bonus is it has it's hardware.


Not sure if I'm going to run into chromoly steel, but if so I found a couple things regarding it.

If it is I'll experiment a bit with welding some scrap. If my results are poor, I'll probably switch to brazing.


 
If it is I'll experiment a bit with welding some scrap. If my results are poor, I'll probably switch to brazing.

You cannot do that !

The joints in the plans were designed for welding and so adequate strength results even though the joints are only butted together.
The whole build process would have to change to braze it , and you would probably have to build extensive jigs.

Paul
 
You cannot do that !

The joints in the plans were designed for welding and so adequate strength results even though the joints are only butted together.
The whole build process would have to change to braze it , and you would probably have to build extensive jigs.

Paul

Not sure what the big deal is if I have to improvise and braze the steering assembly tubes together.

I'm not talking about switching to brazing the rest of the bike together.
 
Not sure what the big deal is if I have to improvise and braze the steering assembly tubes together.

Without seeing what you are planning it is hard to comment on whether it is safe or not.

I'm not talking about switching to brazing the rest of the bike together.

However that wasn't clear from your posting If it is I'll experiment a bit with welding some scrap. If my results are poor, I'll probably switch to brazing.

You would be amazed how many people come on here each year thinking they can join these trikes together with JB weld or use aluminium.

Paul
 
Without seeing what you are planning it is hard to comment on whether it is safe or not.


This part.


While researching for a match for the schwinn fork I ran into learning about welding Chromoly.

Oxy acetylene or TIG is typically used. Also rapid cool down can make the metal brittle.

Seems either I braze it or if higher welding temps are used, toss it in a heat treatment oven to slow down the rate of cooling.


However that wasn't clear from your posting If it is I'll experiment a bit with welding some scrap. If my results are poor, I'll probably switch to brazing.

You would be amazed how many people come on here each year thinking they can join these trikes together with JB weld or use aluminium.

Paul

That sounds silly.

Now PVC, that's the way to go.
 
What! You mean you can't? :eek: Oh dear. What about double-sided sticky-tape? :p

Well a couple tried double sided tape , can't remember them reporting a successful first ride though...

Probably bought the cheap stuff instead of genuine Scotch 3M ?

Paul
 
Bike frames have been brazed for years in both lugged and butted form but having said that I have completely exhausted any knowledge of brazing I have. Personally I wouldn't hesitate to weld the inner steerer tubes regardless of being chromoly or mild. The only grief I've ever found in welding anything steel "ish" is welding cast iron where pre-heatiing and slow cooling is important to avoid cracking next to the weld.
 
Bike frames have been brazed for years in both lugged and butted form but having said that I have completely exhausted any knowledge of brazing I have. Personally I wouldn't hesitate to weld the inner steerer tubes regardless of being chromoly or mild. The only grief I've ever found in welding anything steel "ish" is welding cast iron where pre-heatiing and slow cooling is important to avoid cracking next to the weld.

A bit of what I mean with chromoly alloys.


I've ran into issues before with making knives from various metals.

Too hard and things can become brittle. Tempering and annealing can help.


Thought about it. The bike frame is probably made of the same material as the fork.

I cut off a couple pieces to weld together. Will test after it's done.
 
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