Warrior trike- 1st build

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Menards? So you're in the midwest I take it? I just finished a warrior, see if you can find the articles from spinner on the old forum using the internet archive. I posted links to it before on here as well, they made it so much easier to make it.
 
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Menards? So you're in the midwest I take it? I just finished a warrior, see if you can find the articles from spinner on the old forum using the internet archive. I posted links to it before on here as well, they made it so much easier to make it.
Yep. I'm in Chicago.

Will do. Thanks for the heads up.

Do you know the old forums' defunct web address?
 
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@Thom_G I checked spinner's build out. Definitely good looking out letting me know about that thread.


Ended up picking that combo up for my rear wheel.

Thinking about tossing a SunTour freewheel on it.

Going to have to re-do the dropout weldments. I must not have tightened the axle ends all the way. It's off by a couple millimeters and now tightening pulls the tire to the left.

Upside. Tires are looking good.

 
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What tires did you put on them? Are that bmx tires?
My experience with such big tires is, that they make the ride smoother as you don't put them on max pressure. But they roll very fast in corners and hard to control as the trike starts rolling.
 
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What tires did you put on them? Are that bmx tires?
My experience with such big tires is, that they make the ride smoother as you don't put them on max pressure. But they roll very fast in corners and hard to control as the trike starts rolling.

These.


Grabbed them for surviving pot holes. Chicago's roads are trash.

Also picked up this for the rear.

 
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When you get to the main frame, make sure the frame is higher than the axles on the front wheel or your steering rods won't be low enough to go under the frame. The olans i think are wrong they said its like 11 inches from the ground, but i think thats the bucket, and theres a 1.5 in piece of tube on the bucket, mine ended up being about 13 off the ground to get it right. Basically if you can run an axel though both front tires and its under the frame you're to low.
 
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I have similar tires on one of my trikes.
I ride now also with Schwalbe marathon tires and I noticed a very big difference. The BMX is way smoother and can be used with a lower tire pressure. The Schwalbe goes much better trough corners, but you will notice the bumbs in front more.

With those tires you can play with the tire pressure. Low pressure gives you a very smooth ride and on surten roads, it works better than front suspension. But with low pressure, you loose a lot of cornering speed, because the trike will roll very fast. With higher pressure, you roll not that fast. Not comparable with the Schwalbe, but you will notice the difference with as you run ad low pressure.
As you ride on roads that aren't that smooth, like gravel roads, these tires with low pressure are great. As you ride on hard smooth roads, other tires will be better, but as you raise the pressure, these will do fine as you watch your cornering speed.
 
Joined
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Messages
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When you get to the main frame, make sure the frame is higher than the axles on the front wheel or your steering rods won't be low enough to go under the frame. The olans i think are wrong they said its like 11 inches from the ground, but i think thats the bucket, and theres a 1.5 in piece of tube on the bucket, mine ended up being about 13 off the ground to get it right. Basically if you can run an axel though both front tires and its under the frame you're to low.
Thank you again. I remember reading something here to that effect when I was browsing before. Was planning on tracking that info down soon. You saved me the effort.
 
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I have similar tires on one of my trikes.
I ride now also with Schwalbe marathon tires and I noticed a very big difference. The BMX is way smoother and can be used with a lower tire pressure. The Schwalbe goes much better trough corners, but you will notice the bumbs in front more.

With those tires you can play with the tire pressure. Low pressure gives you a very smooth ride and on surten roads, it works better than front suspension. But with low pressure, you loose a lot of cornering speed, because the trike will roll very fast. With higher pressure, you roll not that fast. Not comparable with the Schwalbe, but you will notice the difference with as you run ad low pressure.
As you ride on roads that aren't that smooth, like gravel roads, these tires with low pressure are great. As you ride on hard smooth roads, other tires will be better, but as you raise the pressure, these will do fine as you watch your cornering speed.
Awesome. Thanks for the heads up.

I figured I'd play with getting used to cornering at various speeds as well as dialing how I want the tire pressure.

3am-ish seems like good a time as any to mess around while there's minimal traffic in the suburbs.
 
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Apr 26, 2021
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Right now figuring out what smart BMS I need for the battery I'm going to build.

Here's the LifePo4 cell details.


Either going to be 36v, 52v or 72v.

Here's the power calculations for those in a 6s formation.

 
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The wattage of the motor will determine how many cells you need in parallel to power it and that will then determine the BMS required unless you choose to build the battery first due to, perhaps, space limitations and then you intend to choose a motor size dependant on what your battery can offer. If space is not a particular limit then decide on your motor wattage first.
 
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I would first look ad what motor to get.
The bms isn't a big problem. Just look what the motor pulls and go a bit above that.
 
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Motor ratings are something of a grey area. The exact same motor can be called 250w in one market but 400w in another solely due to legislation. A 250w motor may actually pull 900w or so for brief periods. It won't run at that continuously though. Motors generally pull what the bms will allow them to and the bms rating will depend on the battery limit.
Example.
If you want a 250w motor and choose 48v then the motor will pull 5a at it's continuous rating. That means the battery needs to output 5a continuous as a minimum. The bms should also be a minimum of 5a to allow full rated power. If you go to say 10a on the bms if the battery can manage it the motor can then pull upto that 10a or 500w for start up or heavy loads. Allowing the motor to pull over it's continuous rating can hurt it though in many cases it will be fine. Much there will depend on the quality of the motor.
 
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