StreetFighter Rear Diff Setup

Joined
May 12, 2021
Messages
3
I plan on adding a posi diff to StreetFighter, but not sure exactly how to go about it as it will be motor free. I have an image, just need help implementing it. Thanks

this doesn't look like a diy project. the construction is superb. my projects are not this nice.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
96
this doesn't look like a diy project. the construction is superb. my projects are not this nice.
The original plan was to buy the diff, but that proved impossible, so was looking at other options. I'm not building this quad; I'm paying someone to weld it up for me, so that all I have to do is regular parts installation and have fun with it after. I don't have the time or skill to build this from scratch myself, at least at this point in time.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2012
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2,384
Location
Wakefield, UK
Fat tyres and wheels weigh a lot extra over and above regular sized wheels.



Two wheels at almost opposite ends of the lard spectrum but both nominally 20" wheels although you'd hardly believe that from their size difference. A pair of the fatties with 203mm rotors and 20mm axles cripples the scales at a hefty 9.24kg. A pair of the skinnies with lightweight road tyres, lightweight 160mm rotors and 12mm axles floats away at 2.7kg.

You'll be adding at least 10kg over and above a regular sized set of 20" and more if using 26" on all corners. Entirely your choice if you are prepared to move that extra 10kg+. You're already adding that 4th wheel over a trike and already adding a diff. You'll need to be adding a motor to move it with fatties on I would suggest.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
96
Fat tyres and wheels weigh a lot extra over and above regular sized wheels.



Two wheels at almost opposite ends of the lard spectrum but both nominally 20" wheels although you'd hardly believe that from their size difference. A pair of the fatties with 203mm rotors and 20mm axles cripples the scales at a hefty 9.24kg. A pair of the skinnies with lightweight road tyres, lightweight 160mm rotors and 12mm axles floats away at 2.7kg.

You'll be adding at least 10kg over and above a regular sized set of 20" and more if using 26" on all corners. Entirely your choice if you are prepared to move that extra 10kg+. You're already adding that 4th wheel over a trike and already adding a diff. You'll need to be adding a motor to move it with fatties on I would suggest.
I'm keeping the 20s, but because of the "abuse" the tires will see, especially on dirt roads (this is what I mean by "off road"), I want to make sure they'll hold up, especially on a 8 hour ride. My friend got an e bike that has 4" width 20" wheels and they don't look too bad. Similar to the Orgin8 ones I found online.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
96
Went to find that link and found these


I'm going to catch some of this on film and upload it to YouTube so you can have a visual understanding of what I want to achieve 🙂 but for now, imagine pulling up to a nice size dirt/icy patch, pulling the front brakes and then start to pedal and and make dirt fly or ice spin then release the brakes and to get squirrelly; maybe do some donuts 😍
 
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Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
96
I know the freewheels will need adapters, but I just came to the realization that I might need a 5th one for the cassette/multiple speed freewheel, right? This is for the freewheel limited slip setup
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2021
Messages
42
So I'm going to throw out another idea that I know works, but would require some custom parts. It is a functioning freewheel diff/limited slip on my Rhoades car. I took pictures because it's so simple and might make some of you whom do machining and CNC work some ideas. So the drum slides over the freewheel and the two post inside the drum fit over the freewheel and engage with it, so when pedaling it drives the wheels, but since the hubs are on bearings and the only contact is the freewheel gear, it will spin freely. If you look at the frame there is a disk brake caliper mounting spot, so I'm guessing this could be used to have disks instead of the band brakes I have on there now. All of the hubs are the same on this bike, front and rear and I have seen them for under $20 a piece with bearings. The axle is a one piece all the way across with a freewheel cassette (actually two in this case) driving the axle from the crank, hope this gets some ideas going.

Hey Brad, if you're reading this and you want to use this idea as add on plans, I can take some more detailed pictures if you want for the Kyoto Cruiser as the Rhoades has 4 wheels instead of three, but has the same type seating and crank setup.


 
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
96
So I'm going to throw out another idea that I know works, but would require some custom parts. It is a functioning freewheel diff/limited slip on my Rhoades car. I took pictures because it's so simple and might make some of you whom do machining and CNC work some ideas. So the drum slides over the freewheel and the two post inside the drum fit over the freewheel and engage with it, so when pedaling it drives the wheels, but since the hubs are on bearings and the only contact is the freewheel gear, it will spin freely. If you look at the frame there is a disk brake caliper mounting spot, so I'm guessing this could be used to have disks instead of the band brakes I have on there now. All of the hubs are the same on this bike, front and rear and I have seen them for under $20 a piece with bearings. The axle is a one piece all the way across with a freewheel cassette (actually two in this case) driving the axle from the crank, hope this gets some ideas going.

Hey Brad, if you're reading this and you want to use this idea as add on plans, I can take some more detailed pictures if you want for the Kyoto Cruiser as the Rhoades has 4 wheels instead of three, but has the same type seating and crank setup.


I'm going a similar route to this, but without the drum. There's a drawing of it a few pages back. 3/4" axles with the freewheel adapters on them. 3 axles total; 2 in the rear for each wheel and one for the two that share the freewheel-cassette-multispeed, whatever you want to call it. I'm going to use pillow block bearings for the axles. I just haven't quite figured out the front wheel bearings yet. I meet with the welder this weekend for materials deposit. I'm also going to be talking to the guy who is interested in machining the few parts I'll need, so that will be awesome. I think this is turning into a positive experience after all, so I'm really looking forward to seeing this thing when the frame is done. Then I just need to wait for the Machinist to get me the parts so the steering can be finished. Then I think the last thing I'll need are the wheels, tubes and tires.

The nice thing about this setup is that it's pretty much upgradable. Rear shock, gearing (I have a few ideas regarding this), wheels, dual rear wheel pedal assist, 4WD pedal assist, etc. I even have an idea for a fully functional chain driven AWD system. More on that in a different thread.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
96
Quick drawing of what I have done, may help to understand

How exactly does the cassette-freewheel-multispees fit on the axle? Assuming I'm using stock "cheap" mountain bike Shimano gears (for the meantime; remember, this is upgradable), I should use a freewheel adapter, correct?
 
Joined
Jan 14, 2019
Messages
48
Location
Great Mills, MD
Skull Bucket, I for one would be very interested to learn more about how the Rhoades car is setup. Maybe you could start a separate thread so we don't derail this one? Thanks.
 
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