RECON LIZARD

Joined
Apr 15, 2013
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1,783
Location
Washington state
I figured I should
start a "blog" concerning my next future project that will take awhile but keep coming up with different ideas.
This project is going to be EXPENSIVE for sure.
3 - 26x4 fat tires with DIY hubs to fit the 3/4" bearings (1 inch long section of DOM A513 tubing (1.75OD x .1875 wall x 1.375 id} Will do a tutorial on building hubs from scratch as 3/4" / 20mm hubs are $$$ expensive, upwards of $75-$100 each hub.
BEARINGS ARE FLANGED .75 ID x 1.375OD x .498 thickness)
Purchased 3 rims ($30 each plus shipping, two boxes = $130)
need tires and tubes at $35 each $$
want two 48 volt Lipo-4 batteries $$$ battery packs are user select able.
Will have two trailing headlights (turn with the wheel) $
A "roll bar" to secure the bivouac cover
an expanded metal floor with LED lighting under it. Give it a halo lighting effect. More for show.
Have two rifle holding supports behind the roll bar.
frame is a tadpole but longer so driver is sitting behind cross bar and pedals behind cross bar as well. (want as much room as fees able with out going to 4 wheels (with 4 wheels then the gray area of needing a license and registration).
need to purchase a 48 volt 1000 Watt mid drive $$(yes it will be street legal and hopefully can be used instead of conventional ATV. Some states if not all do not allow hunting with an ATV (shooting from ATV not allowed but used only for retrieving game.
NOTE to be street legal the pedals need to operate, 1000 w or less motor and not go faster than 20 mph.
I myself do not hunt anymore due to health and cost as most of Washington land owned by lumber companies.
Plan to sale when completed, looking at $2000-$3000 sale price. to be determined upon completion.
 

Radical Brad

Garage Hacker!
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Mar 13, 1999
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Kakabeka Falls, Ontario, Canada
The great thing about this bike building hobby is that even when we call it "expensive", that usually means less $$$ than what someone might put just into the chrome bumper on a 57 Chevy project!

Looking forward to seeing it unfold.

Brad
 
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Apr 15, 2013
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you and me both. I need to finish assembling my street fox after throwing some yellow paint at it.
 
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I assembled my newly painted street fox w/ mid-drive motor. Now the throttle does not work. Purchased new but now only full throttle. Will hopefully make progress tomorrow.
I have my 3 fat tire rims and ordered some 12g sheet metal (could not find anywhere).
Plan is to cobble the hubs first then layout a frame. Thinking 2 inch box for main beam and 1.5 box for cross beam but best laid plans are always in need of change. Will post some pics tomorrow of street fox
 
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Apr 15, 2013
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got my online metal order so will start cobbling some hubs but first here are my pics of my newly painted street fox. Been riding for past 2 years and finally got around to painting.
Now get any new bugs removed,
oups need a url
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
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Well lets start with some mantra to assist any build.
I have found that BEFORE cobbling a new part or starting a new project, I use something called psychcybernitics.
You basically practice what your next move is when you retire at night for some sleep. IMO you will reach a solution or cobble a part much easier since you have already practiced building said part.
In my situation, I am going to cut and assemble my 3/4" hubs for the RECON LIZARD. In my mind I have all the pieces cut and drilled already but have yet to actually start cutting anything.
Will post some progress pics as I go.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2012
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417
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Wakefield, UK
I'm not sure if I'm doing the same as you but I also build mechanisms in my head, mainly to ensure they are buildable at all. I often find that it's vital to build something in a specific order or I need to change something to make it buildable with the tools and skills I have. It saves a lot of frustration when I get to grips with the metal. I've often changed my initial idea or plan on encountering a mental build issue.
 
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Washington state

hopefully this is correct for posting pics, got to be a better method. need to converse w/ Ed pedle car.
this is my basic idea for the recon lizard. ONLY one speed = SLOW
using a mid drive for electric power (1000W) using #41 chain, way cheaper and stronger than bike chain. If I include multi gears then lots of issues are injected into project (KISS method).
If a chain breaks the trike can still move either pedaling or via electric.
Will need to cobble some large sprockets for the low gear ratios.
The cross over is utilizing a 3/4" shaft w/ some small sprockets. The bearings are same as used in hubs (purchased 10 so I have extra. One mistake on drawing is the chain from cross over is supposed to go to the rear wheel using a reversed freewheel (freewheels CCW instead of CW. I recall seeing then using google.
 
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Apr 15, 2013
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trying to locate a hub with LHD and RHD threads for a freewheel.
May just have to pin/weld the threads since the hub on the wheel at present has both ends of the hub with RHD freewheel threads (FIXIE HUB)
I guess the LHD/RHD hubs are far and few to be had,
 
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YIKES!! $99
thanks but will keep looking or consider welding sprocket to hub?
 
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Well locating a flip flop hub with LH/RH freewheel threads is next to impossible so my solution is to build the rear hub using a 1/2" axle, couple of freewheel adapters, two freewheel sprocket sets, two pillow block bearings and two steel collars w/ set screws.
This will allow me to build the wheel or fix a flat tire without an axle in the way (building spoke flanges that are welded to axle). Install two sprocket sets the same direction so LH freewheels are not needed.
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
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Location
Lanc's, England
Hi MrIdaho

If your mid drive motor is a rear hub motor you can attach a fixed drive wheel to the brake disc side of the motor
and doing the same using a standard disc break rear hub as a cross over



That will give you

pedal fixed
I
fixed - hub- freewheel
I
fixed -motor- fixed
I
wheel freewheel
 
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May 31, 2013
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South Benfleet, Essex, England, UK
That drive arrangement is essentially what is on Sandman's NICOR trike, except he used a BB-Shell & pedal axle where you show Mid-drive motor and put a freewheel on the left-hand side with a 22T sprocket and another fixed sprocket driven by a short chain and a captive mid-drive motor. On the RH side of the pedal-axle is a standard triple chainring and the final drive fro mthis 42/32/22 triple goes to a 7-speed cassette on the rear wheel.
 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
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Location
Washington state
here is my thinking on the drive setup. After I get back from camping I plan to order more parts and hopefully have the hubs drilled and welded. Been kinda delayed getting my yellow terror trike ready to go camping. HAD chain/derailer issues to deal with.
 
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Apr 15, 2013
Messages
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Location
Washington state
MAYBE going off the deep end but contemplating an independent front suspension. Have seen several designs using heim joints.
Anyone have a sucessfull set up you could offer some insite.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2012
Messages
417
Location
Wakefield, UK
The issue with front suspension on a tadpole is the tendency to lean outwards in a corner needs to be controlled. An anti-roll bar would be needed which would not stop lean but merely control it to some degree. Some ignore the effect and simply limit the suspension to an inch or so via sliding kingpins on the basis it's better than zero suspension. The only realistic way to control the unwanted lean introduced by suspension is to make the whole trike lean into the corner as per a regular two wheeler. This requires a a complex set of front arms and I found in my efforts at this that any suspension compromises the steering angles as the suspension moves due to the short nature of the rods. In other words introducing a worthwhile suspension travel into a trike that is already leaning the "wrong" way in a corner then steers itself due to that suspension travel as your steering linkages can't cope with the suspension movement. Adding in an ability to lean increases the compromises to a large degree. See my tilting trike thread.
 
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