Quad build.

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Can't wait to see the new renders

Paul
 
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Looks great Emiel. :D
 
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Thank you. I worked today on my caravan. Only thing I need to do is finishing my electric part. Just solder a few wires and it is ready.

In the coming days, I will work on the front suspension.
I need to work it further out. I will also ad the steering in the model.
It will probably get a lot of lacer cutting parts again, but that isn't a problem. It makes it a lot easier to work with. I can easily make the diskbrake mounts without I need to measure it.

What I do now, takes the most time. As the concept is good for me, then I need to work it out, check everything and make drawings and files for the factory.
I also need to design parts that help me holding the parts on its place for welding. I will print them on my 3D printer. I worked by my previous build very well and I didn't expect that, so I didn't make for everything a part for welding.
This time i will do it for all parts.
Welding goes so much faster and it fits so much better together, that I safe a lot of time and don't need to adjust things of do things over.

I will try to finish the concept next week.
Then I can make new renders.

I can't wait till I can start building.
 
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Thank you. I worked today on my caravan. Only thing I need to do is finishing my electric part. Just solder a few wires and it is ready.

In the coming days, I will work on the front suspension.
I need to work it further out. I will also ad the steering in the model.
It will probably get a lot of lacer cutting parts again, but that isn't a problem. It makes it a lot easier to work with. I can easily make the diskbrake mounts without I need to measure it.

What I do now, takes the most time. As the concept is good for me, then I need to work it out, check everything and make drawings and files for the factory.
I also need to design parts that help me holding the parts on its place for welding. I will print them on my 3D printer. I worked by my previous build very well and I didn't expect that, so I didn't make for everything a part for welding.
This time i will do it for all parts.
Welding goes so much faster and it fits so much better together, that I safe a lot of time and don't need to adjust things of do things over.

I will try to finish the concept next week.
Then I can make new renders.

I can't wait till I can start building.
I'm looking forward to seeing your build take shape.
Cheers
 
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What I do now, takes the most time. As the concept is good for me, then I need to work it out, check everything and make drawings and files for the factory.
I also need to design parts that help me holding the parts on its place for welding. I will print them on my 3D printer. I worked by my previous build very well and I didn't expect that, so I didn't make for everything a part for welding.
This time i will do it for all parts.
Welding goes so much faster and it fits so much better together, that I safe a lot of time and don't need to adjust things of do things over.
All this 3D design/rendering I assume saves you time because you have to travel somewhere to build your Quad and also you want to make 2 or more hence the laser cut parts speeding up the build.

As my building is done 15 meters from my front door in my garage , building is much more immediate and the build is on the fly with stuff maybe not planned till another stage is completed.
I suppose my trikes evolve rather than being designed ' right ' from the start ?



i do a little CAD [ card board aided design ] ;)(y)

looking forward to seeing your design.

Paul
 
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My first build had a few laser cut parts. That helped a lot, because I have not much tools and I work on the ground. So limited in what I can do.
So gof my second build I went more complicated and did more with laser cut parts. It was also that time, that I met my mbuilding mate.
So I did most of the build ad his place.

He has seen the parts and how much easier it is to build. He also likes how it looks and how much time it safes to build.
Doing 2 to start with, makes that we can build them a lot faster.
And as we need to build more, it is easy to do so. I have all dimensions and drawings, so making more is easy.

It is not everything that is fixed before building. I make also changes along the way.
 
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I made a simple model as concept for the steering.
Top and bottom m10 and the wheel just as I have now, m12.
The m12 mount needs to be sanded down in the back, so the 2 plates that will be mounted in slots, will fit.


Mounting for the disk brakes can be places where I want.




I just got the info that I will have a diff.
This can cause that I will redesign the rear wheel setup with a diff and different suspension. I need to see what it is first.

The motor that will power the quad, will be a 2000w hub motor. Geared 2 to 1. So motor Spind twice as hard, what makes that I get even more power.
Controler will be a 250/350w or 350/500w.
 
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Hi Emiel
Do you have additional photos of the quad you just posted in the gallery section? Very cute, very interesting!
How is the frame articulation and steering actuated? I can' see any hand levers in the photos.
Cheers
 
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I have the base frame without steering yet.
I am going to work on the front suspension next week or after my holiday.
The rear can also change a lot. It depends on the diff and the parts I can get for it. Then the rear can change and get a cimilar suspension as the front.

I want to keep the seat as low as possible. It will be higher than on my trike, but still low.
 
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I looked ad some parts today.
I took a diff with me home, so I can put it in 3D and work it on the design.

We looked ad several options for mounting it.
I will work that out in the next model.

I also tried an other trike. It has an Ackerman that is off, but that made that it rides better than I expected. It reacts very direct, because the used an Ackerman of the trike is shorter. That makes that it responds very direct, but also has a very smal turning circle. It is stable on high speeds, but it isn't meant for that.

Here some images of the diff.
It has gears inside.




The disk brake is a disk brake for a card.
That will be replaced by a gear for the motif that will be 1 on 1.
2kw motor, so not really needed to gear it differently.
 
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I am back from my holiday and I started with some basic design for the front suspension. Well not a real design, more just for demensions. Looking to see what demensions I need and how I will do the steering and the arms.
I setout the Ackerman and then shortened it a bit. As the wheelbase is 1100mm I changed it to 900mm. This makes that you get more steering and a smaller turning circle. I wanted more than where I look ad now, but i need to see what I do.

The diff will be replaced by one ways. The goal is to get the wheel hubs where we can mount the one way bearings in.
We have the bearings, but now we need to see if we can get the wheels that are made for them.
Else we use geared oneways.

The rear I have all thought out. I only need to change the models a bit, but I wait till I know what way we go on the one ways.
After that I measure the motor and other parts and work that out.

The quad will be higher from the ground than my trike, but it will be a more allround quad. So also a bit off road. Not to extreme, but ground clearance is nice to have. With the 4 wheels, it will be stable enough.

Gearing I need to calculate. Want more power to pull and still have top speed. So need to see what 3 gears I mount in the front.
 
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After talking last week with who I am going to build the quad and after our phonecall from today, this is changed.

The with will be just under a meter.
It is wider than my trike, but as long as I stay under 1,1m, I can ride every where in the Netherlands.
This is done to as some stability.
Second that changed.
It gets 26 inch wheels all around.
This to ad some ground clearance and make it better and smoother on other road surfaces.

This is where we are still looking ad.
The steering. It will be low, but there are 3 options where we look ad.
First one, but the least likely to be used is joystick steering.
The second one is underwear steering.
It was in my plans, but now we are looking ad tank steering. It solves a few problems with space and I find it interesting.

One other thing we look ad is Stainless steel.
We are looking if we can get it for a good price.
No paint needed and as some places it is better.
But this depends on the price.
 
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Stainless steel is 4 to 6 times more expensive than steel. It's also a tad heavier than steel, and not stronger unless you go for certain alloys.

Underseat steering gets my vote.

26" wheels easy to find, but less strong than 20" wheels. On the other hand, with 4 to spread the load, and with the right tyres...
 
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Stainless steel is 4 to 6 times more expensive than steel. It's also a tad heavier than steel, and not stronger unless you go for certain alloys.

Underseat steering gets my vote.

26" wheels easy to find, but less strong than 20" wheels. On the other hand, with 4 to spread the load, and with the right tyres...
Yes it is more expensive, but we try to get a good deal for the steel.
As that doesn't work, we get normal steel.

Yes 26 inch is weaker, but I think it will not be a problem. It isn't a racer, so corning speed will be lower.
Also will we not use basic wheels. Thicker spokes and strong rims will help a bit.
I don't think that it will be a problem.

Steering is a thing we still look ad. Thank steer is something that probably works better with the setup, but I need to check that in the model.
It can be that both quads have a different steering.
The same with the seat hight. Probably I will make it adjustable in height and angle.

I probably need your help Maddox with some parts. 😊
If you want, I can send you the drawings as it is finished and the info from how we build it as we changed things. Than can you build one also if you want.
 
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Having built my last tilter from stainless I would certainly use stainless again. It flexes less than mild and is more dent resistant. Just try centre punching it to confirm that. One tip I'd offer is get a quality stepper drill or ten. The saw edges on them work better than even very good drills. Drills work upto 6mm. Above that drilling stainless gets hard. The only drills I found that worked well over 6mm were the flat type that make their own pilot hole. Std drill shapes above 6mm were all but useless.

 
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Thanks for the info Popshot.
I hope I can do it from stainless steel.
It is indeed stiffer and surten parts can therefore be thinner.

I am now having a short break, but tonight I go further with my design.
I do everything with square tuning, even the arms. This keeps it all in the same style.

For now I have the seat ad tgd hight of the the center of the 26 inch wheels.
I measured my wheels and 25,5 inch is what they are. So I use that in my model.
I am trying to make one flat base that sits horizontal and where the seat, the diff and the rear wheels are mounted on.
The front gets 2 tubes above each other that holds the front suspension.
I try to keep the seat far forward. This, so I can keep the wheel base short for a 26 inch. It is now about 10 to 15cm longer than my trike.
That is no problem, because it also gives me a bigger space behind my sead to carry stuff.
 
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I worked on the new design and the rough base is ready.
The dimensions aren't right, but this is the base I use to work further on.
Wheelbase is 1200mm. This can still be changed to 1300mm, but I think that 1200 is a nice length. It makes it not to extreme and I can let the cargo part, stick further out of the back so I still have enough space to carry stuff.

The seat will be raised a bit and the double front will be longer. This will go to the part behind the seat.

I didn't ad the part that holds the plate yet. This is something where I am still thinking about on how I will do that. Now it can hold a plate from 1,1m long and about 1m in width.

I also didn't as the tank steering mounts yet. It comes just above the bar that is under the seat. That part that is now there, will be covered and behind the seat, will come the battery mounts.
Each side will hold a 2kwh 48v battery.

We went for tank steering because it is better to hold on as the Trike tilts in the corner.
The second reason was, that it is something different.

I will also make a box that can be mounted on the back. It will be from xps plates with glasfiber and epoxy.
The xps isolates it, is light and strong, especially in combination with the glasfiber and epoxy.
I will put a door on each side or in the back, that is something i didn't decide yet. The door will get a lock.
The last thing I ad is a removable roof with solar panels. But this will be added as the quad is ready.

Here some early images.






The part that stops now in front of the seat, will go till the back mount of the seat, that will be mounted to the rear, to get a triangle to make the frame stiffer. The seat will rise a bit, but this makes that the arms will mit hit my legs.









Springs will ge mounted with 20 to 25% tention. This will mean that the suspension arms will not be level as you don't sit on the Trike. The Trike will be level as you sit on it. The arms will still point a bit down, but not much.

The front where the pedals will come will be adjust it hight. I like it a bit higher, but it depends on the seat location.

The seat is there just to see his much space I have. It will get a hp velotechnik seat.

It isn't a racer, but it gets 3s in front and 10s in the rear.
It will be able to go fast, but it is mainly for off-road fun, transport, camping with a tent and camping with the caravan.
This Trike will easily beat the German roads. 😁
 
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Can't wait to see the new renders

Paul
Just posted a few.
New ones will follow soon. I need to make some models of some parts we use.
After that, I can build it further with the right dimensions.

We are still looking what wheels we will use.
The fat tires that they use on mtb's look good.
 
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Just a question. You're using all box section (probably 40x40x2).

But why the 2 extra "spines" behind the seat? Those can be replaced with L angle or even a large X making the whole rear end triangulated and therefore stiffer and lighter.
 
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In there comes the diff and the hub motor.
Stiffness comes from the plate that comes above that. I only didn't ad those standoffs yet.

All 40x40.
That box and the arms are part of the Trike. The rest can be removed, but stays for the luggage part.
 
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