PRESENTATION

Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
12
Hello Gents,
My name is Charles and I am from Belgium Europe. I am a structural engineer but retired at the age of 69. I am currently trying to build my own trike and therefor I have enslisted myself in a TIG welding school. My frame is already finished in steel (trial version). Currently I am going to attach my front wheels and back wheel. For the front wheels I want to place 20" wheels with an axle of 14 mm. Back wheel is 26". As the contraption is a trial version from which I will have to erase the errors I did not really wanted to put too much money in it. So i have no bearings on the steering system and the brakes will be just block brakes on the front wheel.
My first question is : Do you think that a steering right on the wheels is O.K.?
My second question is: Should I add a Torpedo system of brakes on the rear wheel? (torpedo system is a system where by pedalling backwards you start to brake.

Another thing I am currently after is a kind of "engine" to back up when the going is steep and hard. I was thinking about a system that could be loaded only through pedaling, but I have tp do some more research on this. As we all know, energy is going to cost more and more and we have to find a way of creating this energy ourselves. How? That is the question of course. Are e going for a kind of battery or a pressure volume, I do not rightly know, but I am searching.
I think it would be nice to create a think thank with a few interested members and see where we come.

Thanks for any info. I really am curious to hear your ideas.
May the force be with US.
Charles
 

Radical Brad

Garage Hacker!
Staff member
Joined
Mar 13, 1999
Messages
5,331
Location
Kakabeka Falls, Ontario, Canada
Website
www.atomiczombie.com
Greets!

If you do a coaster brake, you will limit yourself to only a single speed.
Better to just add caliper brakes or even a disc if you have parts available.

Most braking is done by front wheels on a tadpole trike as well.
I don't ever bother with the rear brake, unless I intend to do some stunt riding (slides around corners on gravel mostly).

Brad
 
Joined
Oct 14, 2012
Messages
671
Location
Sussex UK
Hi Charles,
welcome to the group,
Direct steering is easy to make but is very sensitive.
I would not go for coaster brake as it limits you to one gear unless you have multiple chainrings at the front end, trikes really do need lots of gears .
I am guessing your thinking on the lines of a regenerative power system ? the problem with that is the old chestnut of diminishing returns due to drive losses, for now an add on E assist is probably the simples option, but I look forwards to seeing your build
regards
John
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
858
Location
Banglen, Thailand and a little bit Reading, UK
Hi Charles,

I have 3-speed hubs on my tadpole trike and LWB, both have a coaster brake only. I live in a flat area and cycle on quiet roads and tracks, so adequate for my needs. I have direct knuckle steer also on my trike, easy to implement. Any shimmy in the steering is easy to overcome by adding some stiction.

TIG is my preferred method of welding, more suited to thin walled steel section on bike projects, and good fun once you get the knack.

Best of luck - and keep us posted.......

PS - strongly advise you use SPD pedals or some other method of foot retention, leg-suck could ruin your day big time.
 
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
153
Location
Lanc's, England
Hi

I have in front of me a Shimano Nexus SG-C6001, 8 speed hub with coaster brake. So you can get coaster brake hubs with more than 1 speed.

I bought it to make a custom bike without cable clutter.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
12
Hi Charles,

I have 3-speed hubs on my tadpole trike and LWB, both have a coaster brake only. I live in a flat area and cycle on quiet roads and tracks, so adequate for my needs. I have direct knuckle steer also on my trike, easy to implement. Any shimmy in the steering is easy to overcome by adding some stiction.

TIG is my preferred method of welding, more suited to thin walled steel section on bike projects, and good fun once you get the knack.

Best of luck - and keep us posted.......

PS - strongly advise you use SPD pedals or some other method of foot retention, leg-suck could ruin your day big time.
Hi Frank,
Thanks for the advise, and yes, I like to TIG weld also. I did 2 years of electrode welding and it works but it is brute force, whilst TIG is more "sophisticated".
What is LEG SUCK? I understand it is not agreeable, but I do not know what it is.

I am currently busy with the king pins and the Ackermann principle.
All big words, but it's O.K.

Say, I am currently also busy, as I stated in my little presentation, with an idea of making a pressure vessel (as light as possible, and mechanically bring in 150 bars. Then, using the principle of a locomotive (ancient train with steam, for the young people) use the pressure for a short time to overcome for example a steep gradient. I don't want to use electricity or gas or anything that is available, except muscle and weight force.

What do you think about this? Do you think it is feasible, or just rubbish?

Give me a shout,

Charles
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
858
Location
Banglen, Thailand and a little bit Reading, UK
....leg suck (or foot suck?) can happen on a tadpole trike if your feet are not firmly attached to the pedals. An example would be, as you're cycling along and you hit a bump in the road, your foot could drop down off the pedal, hit the road, and be dragged under the cruciform frame section, throwing you forward at the same time, resulting in very serious injury dependent on speed. I had a taste of this on my MK1 trike, whilst at about walking pace I placed my feet on the road to slow down the last few yards, and my foot hit a bump and was wrenched back on itself. I was a real shock - no time to react. The bruising soon healed, but since then I always use SPD pedals and shoes. Heel straps are another option, and maybe other methods, but most choose SPD's I think. Anyways - safety first.....;)
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
12
Hello,

What would be the price for the full set of plans to build the
WARRIOR LOW RACER TADPOLE TRIKE

shown in the DIy plans. Is it 16.95 USD or one time 36 dollars, or many times 36 dollars? I am confused here, sorry about that.

Charles
 

SirJoey

Super Moderator
Joined
Feb 8, 2008
Messages
4,394
Location
Aboard a UFO, hovering over Kentucky!
Is it 16.95 USD or one time 36 dollars, or many times 36 dollars?
Charles, it's 16.95 for one set of plans. 36 bucks will get you 6 different sets of plans,
your choice, a vastly better deal if you plan on ever building more than one HPV! (y)

Personally, I purchased 14 different sets! :)

***
 
Joined
Sep 12, 2012
Messages
2,218
Location
Apple Valley, California, USA
Hi and Welcome Charles

I have been watching your build, and just wanted to add my two cents.

One plan @ $16.95 ($1.05 Short of $18.00...@ 3 x $6.00)
Two plans @ $33.90 ($ 2.10 short of $36.00)
.....................................OR................................

* Six different plans @ $36.00 ( 6 plans X $6.00 = $36.00)

Hmmm !....decisions, :unsure: decisions, :unsure: decisions, :unsure:

DITTO, what Sir Joey said. I have 14 plans myself. I refer to them, as the need/desire calls for it.
Though you may not want to build what the plan calls for, the building techniques that Brad has included,
in each different plan, is more than worth it, for future builds, or just general use.

P.S. I envy TIG welders. Maybe some day.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
12
Hello guys,

Again I'd like to know if I want to make the bike that is shown how many plans do I need? I don't want to build different type of trikes, just one and stick to it. At the moment I am busy with my own design of a recumbent trike and hopefully I will be ready end of may. Then I sure will send you a few pictures. It is a prototype, because I will have to learn from my mistakes. The only reason I want to see the plans proposed here is to avoid some basic errors or make underestimations of some frictional points. So, if someone can tell me how many plans I need to make the trike shown in the "WARRIOR LOW RACER". Thank you very much for your patience and good will.

Charles
 
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
2,078
Location
South Benfleet, Essex, England, UK
Hello guys,

Again I'd like to know if I want to make the bike that is shown how many plans do I need? I don't want to build different type of trikes, just one and stick to it. At the moment I am busy with my own design of a recumbent trike and hopefully I will be ready end of may. Then I sure will send you a few pictures. It is a prototype, because I will have to learn from my mistakes. The only reason I want to see the plans proposed here is to avoid some basic errors or make underestimations of some frictional points. So, if someone can tell me how many plans I need to make the trike shown in the "WARRIOR LOW RACER". Thank you very much for your patience and good will.

Charles
If a Warrior is what you are building then that plan is complete for building a warrior. So just that one plan.
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
12
Hello,

Can someone tell me where I can find king pins, ready made, that I could attach to my frame?

Also, the peddles turn around an axel and this one is in a steel cylinder attached to the bike. But I I have the peddles and the axis and have to makle the cylinder. What do I have to be carefull for?

Is there a shop where I can buy things loke, king pins end bearings, turnbuckles etc.. that are required to make a trike?

Thanks for any sort of answer.

Cheers,

Charles
 
Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Messages
12
Hello Again,

Sorry but I forgot something.
If for turning I want a direct wheel control instead of going under the seat etc.. Is the arm movement not a bit strange when we want to turn?
I mean that let us say we want to make a left turn, instead of pushing on the right arm and pulling on the left, we want to do just the oposite, no? It is more like having a boat rudder in hand. Or do I see this wrong?

Cheers

Charles
 
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
2,078
Location
South Benfleet, Essex, England, UK
Hi Charles,

I do not know where you are located but the pedal "Bottom-Bracket" bearing parts you want are usually "salvaged" from scrap bikes.
Kingpins often get made from a pair of headtubes (with associated bearing races) or can be made from raw tube of the appropriate size with threadless headset bearings purchased from the usual sources (e.g. www.SJScycles.co.uk)
Or you can buy frame parts brand new from frame-builder suppliers like (UK Specific - https://www.framebuilding.com/).

Direct steering is indeed like reversed "Tiller-Steering". Easy to implement, but not the best solution.
If you want to do a proper steering solution use Peter Eland's excellent "Steering Geometry" spreadsheet (easily found online).
 
Top