Greetings all. New member. I've been not riding much the last few years, because I work fairly long hours (but from home) and with all the other things I need to do, I can't take away from family time. I'm a big guy and gained my COVID weight over what wasn't light for 6'4" guy. So hoping to move family time to riding time somewhat. All three are excited about it.
I'm starting to get parts to build a Kyoto Cruiser with a centered rear child position. Initial Sketchup design work below. I widened a little in playing, but it looks like I'm better to go longer. I'll be drilling and tapping cranks for 130mm and 105mm positions. Our 5-year-old foster child that we will be adopting is 3'5" tall and I am designing the seat to be bolted or pinned with a front and back pin maybe a foot apart. This would allow moving it back as he grows without affecting the chain length (holes at 1" centers). This will cantilever the weight a little more as he gets heavier, so initially set up in front of the rear beam.
Question on this is what do people see as minimum chain line for a 3x7 setup? I will most likely have only rear setup for him at first and possibly locked into less than 7. But as he gains size and strength, I want to give the same range we have. I'm currently at 360mm or so from freehub center to crank center, which seems tight but doable. However, it would probably require not cross gearing unless I lock off the high front ring, etc. Would love to hear opinions on this. I'm working on the tradeoff on the triangle formed with more height of the rear BB and more forward position.
I think I will need a plate across the back for safety covering all the moving parts or a U leg channel.
Wife and kid would share a shaft, so they need to work together smoothly. I'll most likely share a shaft with an electric motor going into a 7 speed freehub if we take to this and want to make it a street safe for some streets where holding 25 mph for a bit to get past would be nice. I'm using a splined shaft with adaptors for freehub and freehub + disc made by Staton (https://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=182). I really worry about not being able to move things around and change freewheels for cog wear with chain if we ride this a bunch.
Due to the length and weight of me and my wife, I'm looking at using 1.5" x 3" beam for this main frame. This allows me to seriously up the strength while keeping the wall thinner, so best tradeoff for weight gain.
My plan is to work through this over the next year. Possible faster, but not sure. I need to practice my rusty TIG skills and get a permanent high amperage 220V run into the garage. My wife only takes so much unplugging the dryer and snaking a cord out the door.
I'm starting to get parts to build a Kyoto Cruiser with a centered rear child position. Initial Sketchup design work below. I widened a little in playing, but it looks like I'm better to go longer. I'll be drilling and tapping cranks for 130mm and 105mm positions. Our 5-year-old foster child that we will be adopting is 3'5" tall and I am designing the seat to be bolted or pinned with a front and back pin maybe a foot apart. This would allow moving it back as he grows without affecting the chain length (holes at 1" centers). This will cantilever the weight a little more as he gets heavier, so initially set up in front of the rear beam.
Question on this is what do people see as minimum chain line for a 3x7 setup? I will most likely have only rear setup for him at first and possibly locked into less than 7. But as he gains size and strength, I want to give the same range we have. I'm currently at 360mm or so from freehub center to crank center, which seems tight but doable. However, it would probably require not cross gearing unless I lock off the high front ring, etc. Would love to hear opinions on this. I'm working on the tradeoff on the triangle formed with more height of the rear BB and more forward position.
I think I will need a plate across the back for safety covering all the moving parts or a U leg channel.
Wife and kid would share a shaft, so they need to work together smoothly. I'll most likely share a shaft with an electric motor going into a 7 speed freehub if we take to this and want to make it a street safe for some streets where holding 25 mph for a bit to get past would be nice. I'm using a splined shaft with adaptors for freehub and freehub + disc made by Staton (https://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=182). I really worry about not being able to move things around and change freewheels for cog wear with chain if we ride this a bunch.
Due to the length and weight of me and my wife, I'm looking at using 1.5" x 3" beam for this main frame. This allows me to seriously up the strength while keeping the wall thinner, so best tradeoff for weight gain.
My plan is to work through this over the next year. Possible faster, but not sure. I need to practice my rusty TIG skills and get a permanent high amperage 220V run into the garage. My wife only takes so much unplugging the dryer and snaking a cord out the door.