Next week I go yo a bike store to talk about the drive train for my trike. He will also put it togheter for me.
I don't have the tools and don't want to invest in that.
They did it also for my other trike.
Around here, right now, its almost impossible to get work done on a bike at a local bike store - they are all completely swamped. I could probably get it done at the co-op, but I prefer to be able to do it myself, so I'll see how these 3D printed tools work out.
Here it is terrible. Most shops only help as you by trough them. Just a few want yo help and one is a BMX shop. He is great and made my last wheels. I go again to him. Very nice guy that delivers great quality for a very low price.
One shop was terrible. They couldn't even help me with my drive train. Even as I ordered it trough him. I found an other shop for that and if needed I can go to the recumbent bike shop.
The shop in my street also only helps as I order trough them, but he helps me with small stuff, like brake cables and stuff. Don't have too look online for all those parts.
First, setup to start welding the 14.5 degree angle for the steering system:
I've welded it, but going to wait until it cools down to grind it and make it look pretty.
Second, I welded the little square closed at the back of the seat bottom post (no picture). I also welded the handlebar steering gooseneck piece (the one inside that you cut the middle out of and weld back together).
In related news, I finished tuning my two front wheels:
I'm very happy with how they turned out. Unfortunately for trike building purposes, I will be out of town Friday through Sunday, so no weekend work on the trike.
Yeah, the spacer pushes on the side of the rotating inner race on the bearing, which is what is supposed to happen. On the outer wheel side, the edge of the nut pushes against the side of that bearing inner race.
Here's a really crude and simple cross section of what I think it looks like:
The spacer also has a dust protector which holds it in place, but that doesn't contribute to the rotating part of this at all, so I didn't bother including it.
I'm planning on using a nylock nut when I mount the wheels for real, so with the outer spacer in place the nylon part is basically just barely on the threads, thus I decided it would work better without the outer spacer.