I may have backed myself into a corner ? fixing the fairing top

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Hi all



I though it would be a good idea [ to keep the rain out ] to overlap the top [ like a shoe box ] however now I am squashed in a corner with few ideas how to fasten the top down?
Obviously it needs to:-
a)Not come off over bumps
b) not slide backwards with the airflow pushing against it
c) be easy to remove
d) not put much localised strain on the cardboard [ bad for the structure.]

I wonder if Neodymium magnets might hold it , however have no experience of them.
My current sort of hazy plan is to add strips along the short sides of the top laced with 3mm bungee cord and fasten to 3 pegs fastened through the card of the base with 2 big washers on each peg to take the strain ?



Adding this is a big leap of faith as it will be difficult to repair should it not work or fail in service.

Ideas ?

Paul
 
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Would a couple of short velcro straps/tabs not do the job?
Very lightweight and noise-free (except when ripping open).
 
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Dan

It was considered however I am not sure I could glue them on to stay stuck for repeated ripping as the surface is only really paper ?

One way may be to cut them into strips about 10 mm wide and use 2/3 of them on each side

Paul
 
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Dan

It was considered however I am not sure I could glue them on to stay stuck for repeated ripping as the surface is only really paper ?

One way may be to cut them into strips about 10 mm wide and use 2/3 of them on each side

Paul
Paul,

Yes, I can see the problem, the substrate isn't the heaviest of duty to attach stuff to.
Maybe your bungee lace over eye-hooks is a better bet then.


Those little 4" velcro cable-ties and some stick-on cable tie mounts that you can thread them through? So the ripping Velcro action is only against itself and NOT the surface of the box or lid?
Only needs 2 pairs on either side. Tough call really.
 
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Paul,

Yes, I can see the problem, the substrate isn't the heaviest of duty to attach stuff to.
Maybe your bungee lace over eye-hooks is a better bet then.
The 3 lower mounts are it's weakness , also it seems a lot of parts ?

Those little 4" velcro cable-ties and some stick-on cable tie mounts that you can thread them through? So the ripping Velcro action is only against itself and NOT the surface of the box or lid?
Only needs 2 pairs on either side.
Not familiar with those could you add some links ? they sound interesting.
I can add some localised strength/greater gluing area for fitting by first gluing on some 1/16th plywood

Paul
 
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Not familiar with those could you add some links ? they sound interesting.
I can add some localised strength/greater gluing area for fitting by first gluing on some 1/16th plywood
The cable tie mounts (various sizes) are these.
The velcro re-usable ties (also various sizes) are these.
I have not tried the 2 in combo (of course), but I have used both of them before individually.
As long as you can thread the velcro tie through the slot on the tie-fixing easily (unknown) and loop it back upon itself to close/stick.
 
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I have not tried the 2 in combo (of course), but I have used both of them before individually.
As long as you can thread the velcro tie through the slot on the tie-fixing easily (unknown) and loop it back upon itself to close/stick.
That explains why I am struggling !
The 13mm ties are 7mm width and the mounts I found where only 5.2mm slot.
They need to be an easy fit as they will have to thread through each time they are done/undone [ I think ]
Will look at the examples you supplied , ta

Paul
 
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Could you put these in opposing pairs and use rubber band(s) or your 3mm bungee in small tied loops to hold the top down?
 
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Hi all



I though it would be a good idea [ to keep the rain out ] to overlap the top [ like a shoe box ] however now I am squashed in a corner with few ideas how to fasten the top down?
Obviously it needs to:-
a)Not come off over bumps
b) not slide backwards with the airflow pushing against it
c) be easy to remove
d) not put much localised strain on the cardboard [ bad for the structure.]

I wonder if Neodymium magnets might hold it , however have no experience of them.
My current sort of hazy plan is to add strips along the short sides of the top laced with 3mm bungee cord and fasten to 3 pegs fastened through the card of the base with 2 big washers on each peg to take the strain ?



Adding this is a big leap of faith as it will be difficult to repair should it not work or fail in service.

Ideas ?

Paul


 
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Why not just glue a small strip of 3mm plywood on the inside of the box where you risk to rip through the cardboard?
 
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Why not just glue a small strip of 3mm plywood on the inside of the box where you risk to rip through the cardboard?
Could do however Dan was discussing self adhesive cable mounts



that would have been only stuck to the paper surface and run the risk of tearing the paper off.

Paul
 
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You can also get self-adhesive cable mounts that are used to hang xmas lights. £8 for 100.
These could be arranged to allow you to have 2 on one item with a piece of bungee knotted at each end strung between them. with a third one on the other item and facing the other way and you just hook the middle of the bungee over it. Seems simple enough. :)
 
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I agree that stick on anything isn't going to take much to come off even if the glue is waterproof which it is possibly not as most of that type of things are designed for indoor use. Whatever is used will need to bolt through with spreader plates. Glueing it as well will reduce the chance of "ovaling" any holes.

A set of these...


....,or something similar, will mean you can chop the hook off half of them to use as the reverse side spreader plates. Pair them up and either large o-rings or velcro ties around them.
 
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Oh, so thinking "INSIDE THE BOX" for a change put the stick on low-profile cable mounts on the inside and bring the Velcro out through a tiny slot to the outside.
You are unlikely to pull the whole mount through the corrugated cardboard wall. ;)
And let's face it, we aren't trying to stop a wild animal escaping from the box, just trying to keep a lightweight lid on.
 
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great ideas guys thanks.

Self adhesive cable mounts gives a pleasant evening viewing Ebay alternatives.

Currently awaiting time to finish putting primer on both halves [ visitors , will be gone tonight phew ! ]

Currently awaiting Ebay purchase for my first idea [ postal strike ]

Then build a couple of prototypes and see what's what.

Paul
 
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Those stick on cable ties are pretty useless. I used a couple of dozen to refix my telephone cable after the house was re-roofed and the phone cable was left hanging. The soffits were new plastic ones with shiny surface ideal for self adhesive- or so I thought. I cleaned each surface before sticking them and the cable weighed very little and was not strained in any way. About half of them have fallen off after less than a year. If you use them you will need to make use of the two holes in each and bolt them through with BA type bolts and nuts or maybe use small pop rivets with backing washers inside the box. Not ideal but they sure as hell won't stay in place for long otherwise.

John
 
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So I think DannyC had the brainwave to use Velcro and I just perverted it to the cause by using double sided Velcro.



Test pieces the upper one [ lid/top ] has a strip of heavy duty cardboard front and rear and a slot cut for the Velcro
Lower one [ base/fairing ] has a piece of heavy duty cardboard glued both sides and 2 slots cut for Velcro
The cardboard resists the Velcro pulling through the corrugated sides.



Velcro is threaded through slot in top one a round back where it is stuck to itself and a tail is left hanging down
Velcro is threaded through both slots in base piece and stuck to itself around the back.



Viola as the French say ...
One neat fastening no weight or rattle and only Velcro pulling against Velcro.
Downside ? there are 2 small slot's in the base that need sealing against water ingress , compared to it's bulk I don't think they will be a problem.

Implement on the rear thing then I can lash some paint on.

Paul
 
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