hot rod golf cart

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Apr 15, 2013
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2,054
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Washington state
I built this machine several years ago but the motor was too small.
Have also installed a lawn tractor differential to rid the cart of the VW syndrome (wheels were canted inward.)
purchased same kit as Ed pedal car as well as a disc brake setup.
In the mean time I lost the master link for the chain which I thought was a #35 but it isn't. I think it is some metric size?
contact the seller but?
here are some pics
 
Joined
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Well here are pics of my "hot rod" golf cart I am building for my wife






 
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Sep 12, 2012
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3,058
Location
Apple Valley, California, USA
I looked into using a differential from a lawn tractor and one from a golf cart. Both increased my overall weight considerably.
Plus they were too narrow for my project. My project is much more like a 3/4 size car.

Are you still using bicycle chains? I upgraded to T8F chain and still wonder if it will be strong enough. It looks like a lot of the fab work that I had to do is done using your method.

I am still debating whether to continue pursuing the 24T x 3/4" sprocket or just make my own.
At the moment I am waiting on a couple of people that may be able to make them for me to reply.

Otherwise, I will have a go at making them myself. I can do it, just don't want to. But there is a real need, so the chain will work correctly and hopefully quieter.
 
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Well made some progress today even while it was raining outside (glad I got the shop cleared out to be able to push the cart into the garage)
I got the motor to run forward and reverse but need some serious work to get the chain tight.
 
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got everything working BUT the motor stopped running. Had bad connection. Am concerned about battery runtime.
Also that tiny 20amp inline fuse.
contemplating a second battery and a cross over switch. If one battery dies then flip switch and second battery kicks in.
Doing some calculations and motor is 1000 watts (I know its supposed to be 1800 but?) at 48 volts that's 20+ amps.
thinking a 30 amp fuse?
Am redoing all my connections as some are suspect. Used the butt connectors that you heat up to solder the wires together.
Ordered a barrier strip to do all my connections.
 
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present in line 20amp fuse has 16g wire. I feel it is CHOCKING the available power?
 
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present in line 20amp fuse has 16g wire. I feel it is CHOCKING the available power?
If the motor demands more than 20A then the fuse will blow. Has it blown?
If it hasn't blown then it isn't being asked to pass >20A.
 
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no I haven't blown the fuse YET.
Maybe when I get it on the road and demanding more power?
The wires going to the inline fuse are 14-16g wire so going to replace with an inline fuse holder with bigger wire.
waiting for barrier terminal strip.
 
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yesterday I discovered an "improved" method to using solderless terminals.
I have never had much luck just crimping the terminals to the wire so I decided to solder the terminals to the wire.
My old RS soldering iron would not do the deed BUT I discovered a better way.
Using .063 60/40 solder I wraped the solder around the copper wire, inserted into the terminal then using a heat gun on high, it made short work of soldering.
Yes solder melts at 450-500 degrees.
This worked like a charm. After soldering I pushed the plastic back over the terminal.
NOTE check if your wire and solder will fit into the terminal first.
 
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Oh I almost forgot, I have enough room on my battery holder to put two 48v Lipo4 batteries then install the crossover switch so when one battery goes dead, just flip the switch and your off and running.
Don't want the wife to get stranded with a dead olf cart.
And yes, DO NOT PUT LI-PO4 BATTERIES IN PARRALLEL. Bad things could happen.
Now just waithing for parts and figure outwhere to mount the battery condition meter.
 
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Given almost all 48V lithium batteries will have some cells connected in parallel do you mean it's an issue to connect two separate BMS managed units in parallel?

There'll be a huge difference in the potential current draw between testing on stands and climbing a hill. A BMS will limit that draw to whatever the battery can give though better to have a BMS based on what the cells can do and motor will pull than the limitations of a fuse and some wire.
 
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yes I am planning on using two seperate batteries with each having their own BMS.
My objective is to allow my wife to feel comfortable and not worry if battery is dead. Just flip a crossover switch and go.
When she gets home, just charge the low battery.
Our hamlet in the woods is only 1.4 miles in circumference. Back in 1923 it was the largest lumber camp in the USA.
 
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got the electrical all working as it is supposed to.
Had an axle that was freewheeling (set screw threads messed up)
Ground a slot for the keyway and all is good except the threads are loose. striped etc. WHY? I didn't tighten them very tight but?
Now looking for suggestions to fix.
these are hubs off of a golf cart or? but magnet indicates they are steel, not stainless or aluminium. hopefully.
Thinking just weld nuts to the hubs and continue on. Appears orginal 1/4" threads were not cut properly.
Anyone attempt this fix?
 
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took the hot rod golf cart out for a test ride.
Egads this thing is S L O W
Looking to raise the gear ratio.
using 26" fat tires
differential is 13.5 to 1
motor to differential sprocket is 8t on motor and 54 on differential =6.75-1 ratio
speed is about 1-2 mph maybe 3?
going to search for different motor sprocket and differential sprocket.
 
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the diffetrential is 13.5 :1
well located some t8f sprockets
present sprocket = 8t motor and 54 on differential - aprox 20 :1 ratio
11t motor sprocket 54t on differential= 4.91:1=aprox 18:1 ratio
11t motor 44t on differential = 4:1 = 16:1 ratio
these are rough estimates.
the fat tires are 87"circuference.
 
Joined
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Apple Valley, California, USA
the diffetrential is 13.5 :1
well located some t8f sprockets
present sprocket = 8t motor and 54 on differential - aprox 20 :1 ratio
11t motor sprocket 54t on differential= 4.91:1=aprox 18:1 ratio
11t motor 44t on differential = 4:1 = 16:1 ratio
these are rough estimates.
the fat tires are 87"circuference.
I used this website to determine what gearing I needed
Maybe you are using the same or similar.
Very easy to use.
You can manipulate the numbers until you get the speed you are desiring.
Then you will know what gears you need to buy/make.


I needed to use a jackshaft to get to the speed/gearing I wanted,
so this calculator is what I used.

 
Joined
Apr 15, 2013
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found 11t sprocket for motor and 38t sprocket for differential input
differential ratio is 13.5 to 1
so I come up with 17 : 1 ratio
will try the online caculators
 
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