Free coroplast velomobile plans ?

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Hi there

Anyone a member of Facebook and could request these free Coroplast velomobile plans ?

Ying and Yang velomobile



regards Paul
 
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might be easier to build a frame from 1/2" conduit then cover with clear plastic sheeting using rivnuts to attach.
Thats the plan to cover my wifes urban vehicle using marine vinyl.
 
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I think the plans are great and would work with most sheet materials , I am thinking 1.5mm/2mm plywood.

it is a very very light way of building as there is little internal structure , the strength coming from the curve in the sheet material.

you want his way ?

SLG Cyclecars



SLG Cyclecars

Are you talking of metal conduit ? that will be heavy ?

I have heard of using plastic pipe that is under floor heating pipe comes on a roll ?

Paul
 
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not stif enough. EMT conduit is very light and easily bent
 
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not stif enough. EMT conduit is very light and easily bent
I have heard of using plastic pipe that is under floor heating pipe comes on a roll ?

Paul
I would think the flexible pipe would require a fastening method to the skin like the method using fiberglass matting.

Not to be contrary but having built a pedal car using PVC pipe I have some experience.
PVC pipe (Schedule 40) is quite strong. And Schedule 80 more so.

Now there's deciding what method of attaching things. Metal things, wood things, plastic things. Things that move, things that shouldn't move. You are working with a hollow tube with a brittle nature that can result in breakage in an instant.

The weight difference (per foot) between PVC and EMT is noticeable.
1/2" EMT @ 0.29 lbs per foot
1/2" PVC @ 0.16 lbs per foot

Using 1/2" or 3/4" PVC would surely work and can be heated and shaped as required.
If one is to use PVC pipe there is a learning curve in regards to the molecular structure
and how it reacts to heating (time and temperature) and subsequent bending reaction (spring back) prior to setting.

There is the possibility of breaking however if used in a stress point, (AND) you haven't reinforced that stress point.
I reinforced my stress points with wood dowels). Up goes the weight.
Using plastic (PVC) really depends on the intended use of the vehicle. You should not expect that it will safely hold up under off-road riding conditions. Potholes may have an impact ( no pun intended ) on how well it holds up as well.
Using it strictly as a skeletal frame for a body may work quite well...IMO and experience.

Was it worth all the effort? Not really, with one exception. I had to learn how to bend and glue PVC together. Now I am left with that knowledge, which I put into making other parts for ... well, whatever.

Not saying don't do it....they said the moon was made of cheese until they brought a chunk of it back.
There are these https://americanspeedster.com/ and https://americanspeedster.com/gallery/

Exhaust pipe and carburetor manifold made from PVC.


 
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I had a bit of luck, and a cheap pop up tent (those throw in the air things) broke. We opened it up, and it was just the small metal connection tube where the ends of a 6 meter long 6mm diameter solid carbon bar meet that was broken. Now I have more than enough structural material and waterproof fabric for a fairing. Not bad for recycling, or even as a way to aquire raw material. The tent is cheaper than the materials seperatly.
 
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You were lucky I had one I was Freecycling because when I looked at the structure it was actually flat steel and not useful rods and couplers. Although I did find a dumped kite with large long rods just not much material :)
 
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I would think the flexible pipe would require a fastening method to the skin like the method using fiberglass matting.

Not to be contrary but having built a pedal car using PVC pipe I have some experience.
PVC pipe (Schedule 40) is quite strong. And Schedule 80 more so.

Now there's deciding what method of attaching things. Metal things, wood things, plastic things. Things that move, things that shouldn't move. You are working with a hollow tube with a brittle nature that can result in breakage in an instant.

The weight difference (per foot) between PVC and EMT is noticeable.
1/2" EMT @ 0.29 lbs per foot
1/2" PVC @ 0.16 lbs per foot

Using 1/2" or 3/4" PVC would surely work and can be heated and shaped as required.
If one is to use PVC pipe there is a learning curve in regards to the molecular structure
and how it reacts to heating (time and temperature) and subsequent bending reaction (spring back) prior to setting.

There is the possibility of breaking however if used in a stress point, (AND) you haven't reinforced that stress point.
I reinforced my stress points with wood dowels). Up goes the weight.
Using plastic (PVC) really depends on the intended use of the vehicle. You should not expect that it will safely hold up under off-road riding conditions. Potholes may have an impact ( no pun intended ) on how well it holds up as well.
Using it strictly as a skeletal frame for a body may work quite well...IMO and experience.

Was it worth all the effort? Not really, with one exception. I had to learn how to bend and glue PVC together. Now I am left with that knowledge, which I put into making other parts for ... well, whatever.

Not saying don't do it....they said the moon was made of cheese until they brought a chunk of it back.
There are these https://americanspeedster.com/ and https://americanspeedster.com/gallery/

Exhaust pipe and carburetor manifold made from PVC.


Love the " six pack " carb on top 🤣🤣
 
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If you use 1/2" emt conduit then drill holes and insert rivnuts. Then install vinyl sheeting that is designed for marine us.
the sheeting should not discolor (think green house).
 
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