Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Sep 12, 2012
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Apple Valley, California, USA
I have an owie! ๐Ÿ˜ข

I've been sent down to IR. Doing yard maintenance yesterday I strained a knee.
Not sure how or when. It just started hurting.

Still hobbling around today, but seems to be getting better.
Enough so, that I worked on making a template for the caliper brackets.

First I repacked the bearings with grease and mounted the wheel.
Sure needs to be trued up. But that will come later.
Not really necessary for what I'm doing at the moment.



 
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The hot air, she's a blow'in, and progress is a flow'in.

First day back at it after a few days under the weather.
And speaking of hot air...in my shop.(About 3:30 pm)



The knee is still troublesome, but manageable.
I have to get up on the roof soon to do a repair.
I hope I get back down with no fanfare.

Disc brake update.

New position for the disc, making room for the caliper.



I have replaced the slotted mounting screws with Allen head screws.


 
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OK ! Got one wheel done. I just love the look of wire wheels.
Give me another minute and I can have the other wheel done as well...๐Ÿ˜‡




Disclaimer: Any resemblance to a completed wheel found on the internet, is purely intentional.
This copy is intended for borrowing purposes only and shall be returned to the internet upon completion of viewing.
I take no responsibility for this being a pirated copy, and any and all rights go to the originator and poster of this photo.
 
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Knee or no knee

I had to get up on that roof this morning.
Fortunately, all went well, and I didn't make any rapid descents.
Got the solar panel leak repaired. At least for now.
I won't know if it is a good repair until the plugs and sealant/adhesive have cured.

Bothersome Bush

Trimmed a bush, that has been getting in my way while mowing the lawn.
There is nice new growth coming that will help fill in the more open areas.
I'm trying to maintain a 'bonsai tree' look'.



Spindle work today.

Removed the spindle and finished welding it. After grinding off the extra welds,
I finished with a favorite of mine, JB Weld. Covered the whole of the top and now letting it dry and cure.
I used the Kwik Set version for this, as there isn't any stress being exerted on it.




Tomorrow I will start sanding it down and finish filling with Bondo as necessary.
A primer coat will hold it over until I get to finish detailing.


 
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From paper to hardboard, to metal...and back again.



Getting, and holding it square for welding, proved to be a challenge.
Either the magnets were too large, too small, too heavy, too light, or wouldn't hold on the round profile.
Jigging in a vice wasn't much better.



And, there is a bit of heat warp where the axle screws in. And I still have to weld on the mounting bracket.
It is now really tight, the last 3/8", which may or may not be a good thing.
I think the next one will be welded with the axle 'in place'.



Got new mounting bolts, which need to be trimmed down.

And 'back again' explained.

I have plenty of 1/8" plate, but this mount looks to be too thin/flexible.
So I bought a couple of 10 x 10, 3/16" plates, and will make another one.



 
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thoses are nice looking calipers. Info on where etc.
I bought this kit. https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/brake-kit-with-master-cylinder-calipers-hoses-for-go-karts.html
And yes they do appear to be fairly good quality.
But then again, I'm no brake specialist.

I do have a major/minor issue with the supplier. One of the hoses was shorter than advertised, and it won't work for my application.
I sent them a description and photos of my project on May 18, with a F/U Jun 3, and they haven't replied yet.

So, although the kit looks to be quite satisfactory, their service isn't...at least at the moment.

When it comes time I will look to having 'made-to-order brakes lines.
My son works for a hydraulic hose company, so I will see what I can get out of that if anything.
 
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I purchased similar and could never get the master cylinder to work. The hand brakes work great.
I am using mineral oil for brake fluid. Won't collect water and no corrosive like regular brake fluid.
 
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I purchased similar and could never get the master cylinder to work. The hand brakes work great.
I am using mineral oil for brake fluid. Won't collect water and no corrosive like regular brake fluid.
What exactly was the problem with the MC? What did you do to try and fix the problem?

No instructions came with mine, so I'm not sure what type of oil is in my set.
There is oil in it, but it's not full. Its crystal clear, and lightweight. That's all I know about it.

When the time comes I will purge the whole system and refill it.

In the meantime, I need to go to the 'library' and read up on brake fluids.
 

Radical Brad

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Looking awesome as usual!

if you had to guess, how much weight do you think there would be on each front wheel when loaded with cargo and occupants? just thinking about the side loads on the little head tube bearings as well as the forces trying to rip the top nut from the threaded fork stem.

Brad
 
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Hey Ed while your out and about, visit a local pharmacy and purchase a large syringe to reverse bleed your brakes.
It works very well.
On the MC, mine has connections for three or four ? brake lines. Tried different combos but could never get it to build up ANY pressure.
 
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Looking awesome as usual!

if you had to guess, how much weight do you think there would be on each front wheel when loaded with cargo and occupants? just thinking about the side loads on the little head tube bearings as well as the forces trying to rip the top nut from the threaded fork stem.

Brad
I have often wondered the same thing.
My logic has been that bicycles can carry enormous weight. Say 300 pounds and up.
So with my configuration, each front wheel assembly is an average weight of +/- 70 lbs, (Unloaded)
Guessing: Add maybe another 30 pounds to each wheel if fully loaded.
That's +/- 70 pounds each side times two, totaling 140 overall.
Or 100 pounds each, total of 200 pounds.

When I put the scales under each corner, these are the figures I got.
LF 75....RF....65...LR 182.5....RR....181.5...Total 504 LBS. (Without driver/passenger)
These are the best figures I currently have.

If this were going to be a daily driver, then larger more robust bearings would be better.
 

Radical Brad

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Since you are breaking new ground here, it will all be for the sake of science!

The difference in this application is that there will be side loading (unlike a 2 wheeler) and that instead of pushing the bottom race up into the cup, the forces will be trying to rip the top nut race out of the thin threaded stem. Doing just 10 miles per hour into a bump might put hundreds of pounds on that race. Hard to say what they could take though, I have never seen one in this configuration. If it fails, then all you need to do is alter the design slightly for a set of press fit bearings like you did with the actual wheel hubs.

Brad

I have often wondered the same thing.
My logic has been that bicycles can carry enormous weight. Say 300 pounds and up.
So with my configuration, each front wheel assembly is an average weight of +/- 70 lbs, (Unloaded)
Guessing: Add maybe another 30 pounds to each wheel if fully loaded.
That's +/- 70 pounds each side times two, totaling 140 overall.
Or 100 pounds each, total of 200 pounds.

When I put the scales under each corner, these are the figures I got.
LF 75....RF....65...LR 182.5....RR....181.5...Total 504 LBS. (Without driver/passenger)
These are the best figures I currently have.

If this were going to be a daily driver, then larger more robust bearings would be better.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Apple Valley, California, USA
Since you are breaking new ground here, it will all be for the sake of science!

The difference in this application is that there will be side loading (unlike a 2 wheeler) and that instead of pushing the bottom race up into the cup, the forces will be trying to rip the top nut race out of the thin threaded stem. Doing just 10 miles per hour into a bump might put hundreds of pounds on that race. Hard to say what they could take though, I have never seen one in this configuration. If it fails, then all you need to do is alter the design slightly for a set of press fit bearings like you did with the actual wheel hubs.

Brad
Thanks Brad

When I started this, it wasn't going to be this heavy hot rod project.
If I knew from the start that this would be the project I would have made the axle with bottom brackets instead.
What, If I were to (if needed) replace with a bottom bracket thus using the heavier bearings?

About that altering thing. It will probably require making a completely new spindle set up.
Not something I relish doing. At least not right away.
 
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Exactly...sorta

Notice where your axle is, compared to mine.
It's about aesthetics I know, but that's the name of the game on this project.

There's no way I can have the axle on the bottom, and have it look 'correct'.
But your pictures give me something to visualize with. Thanks, heaps.

About stressing the threads.
It would seem that that is what will be happening.
There will be two nuts on the bottom, which should help spread out the stress.

But, I'm going to keep an open mind to change, as long as I can maintain the same look. (within reason)


I'd have to fabricate something like this
 
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I often wondered if a tapered bearing would be better suited seeing how the wheel is supported ONLY on one side.
Small tapered bearings are available.
A ball bearing is designed for rotational loads, not sideways.
 
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