Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Sep 12, 2012
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Not one to sit still long, it was time to play with my seat.

The first order of business was to shorten the legs. I initially cut off a full 12".
But the seat was still too high so off came the rest until it sits flat.


Like so much of this build and it's seat of the pants design and fabrication,
I'm not sure how the seats will be used, redisigned, upholstered etc.


 
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Wouldn't a full width bench seat and perhaps a little bit on the Gothic side too be more in keeping with a T rod? Something considerably OTT?

 
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Wouldn't a full width bench seat and perhaps a little bit on the Gothic side too be more in keeping with a T rod? Something considerably OTT?

Yes, it would and has been in the plan for quite some time. The separate seats are just another way of doing it.
They were originally given to me, and I had planned then to use them in this fashion. I may use both.

I did my own 'button tuft' seats and side panels on my PVC pedal car. I will use the same in this car.
As I'm up against the clock, this would be the easiest and quickest way ... to 'get it moving.'.
 
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Steering linkage redo

The first drag link was too long, so I shortened it by one inch. Wouldn't adjust properly.
The second drag link was to short. Adjusted OK, but the rod ends were out to far.
The third drag link was lengthened by a half-inch. Just about right.
The fourth ....well there can't be a forth. No more tubes

I cut notches this time so I could get more surface weld.


Using electrical tape to protect the threads



All set but for some final cosmetic sanding,grinding.



I will be cutting down the first drag link to replace the tie rod which is, . . .wait for it . . . about a half-inch too short.
Same reason. The rod ends stick out too far for my liking.
 
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Today near 80 degrees. Perfect for in the shop.

I spent yesterday and today redoing the steering linkage. The drag link was replaced with a bigger better one.
Had to modify the steering box, to allow full turning, lock-to-lock.




I've spent virtually all my time just dialing it in. I think I have finally got the tight turning radius, I thought it should be able to manage.

What I need now is the spline that fits the top of the steering post. Don't want or need the steering wheel just the spline,
so I can make a hub that will bolt to my steering wheel. I think it is a 40 spline.




Any ideas about how to score one? Can't use your method Brad, the grooves are way too small.
I've already started searching for such an item online, or a really cheap used wheel that I can chop out the spline from.

An alternative is to drill a hole and install a roll pin. I would rather have the spline though.
 
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Today was, shop cleaning day.

I got the steering done and decided it was time to clean things up.
Put some air in the tires, and mounted the rears back on.
I am really pleased with how easy the steering works.

I was able to maneuver the car all around the shop. Easy peasy.
Also, I am surprised by how little effort it takes to push it.
I wished I had an accurate weight at this point.
I was able to move it forward and back using just my little fingers. The doctor said they should heal in about six weeks. (Just kidding) :D

Anyway just for fun I took this picture showing my now clean shop and framing my creation.

 
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Ok, we've got it so we can roll it.
We've got it so we can steer it.
Now we've gotta ...STOP IT!


This part being the most important safety-wise, I need to get it right.

I want to stay with hydraulics. Bicycle brakes IMO won't really be correct for this project.
So I'm looking at go-kart, golf cart, ATV, motorcycle, etc, for ideas.
Must be disc brakes, though I (might) think about drums for the front, though dual discs are preferred.
The rear has more tread on the surface, so I would like to have dual brake discs there.

At the moment, the link below is what I'm looking at as a starting point.
This kit gives me two discs for the front, but only one for the rear.
I contacted the company, and they only sell prepackaged 'kits'. They won't build a special order kit for me.

Any advice that should come my way will be appreciated.

 
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Washington state
here is where I got the calipers etc for my wife's urban cart

A delta style w/ fat tires in back and hub drive front wheel
https://www.powersportsmax.com/
they do have a master cylinder to mount on the floor. I had brake lines made with a T-ee so one master cylinder controls two calipers. Used mineral oil for brake fluid and reverse bleed the calipers using a large syringe. Worked great. Brakes work great as well. Using hand brake master cylinder.
 
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I suspect that kit is a single circuit meaning if it fails you loose all braking. You may wish to consider either a twin circuit system or at least a very good handbrake as a back-up. Your front wheels don't have any provision for mounting any braking at all at the moment. Do you plan to change the hubs?
 
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I suspect that kit is a single circuit meaning if it fails you loose all braking. You may wish to consider either a twin circuit system or at least a very good handbrake as a back-up. Your front wheels don't have any provision for mounting any braking at all at the moment. Do you plan to change the hubs?
Yes on the hubs. They only reason I'm even thinking about front brakes, is the possibility of DMV requiring them to register this as a LSV, 'low speed vehicle' or NEV, 'neighborhood electric vehicle'.

I'm not opposed to front brakes. There are a lot of hot rods running around without them. I think it really boils down to the effectiveness of the rear brakes and how short of a distance they will stop the vehicle. Bottom line is to be safe not sorry.

I have thought about combining two kits, or getting a second master cylinder and single disc and setting them up to independently off one-foot brake.

There will also be a mechanical handbrake as a backup and parking brake.
 
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here is where I got the calipers etc for my wife's urban cart

A delta style w/ fat tires in back and hub drive front wheel
https://www.powersportsmax.com/
they do have a master cylinder to mount on the floor. I had brake lines made with a T-ee so one master cylinder controls two calipers. Used mineral oil for brake fluid and reverse bleed the calipers using a large syringe. Worked great. Brakes work great as well. Using hand brake master cylinder.
Thanks for the tip Idaho. One reason I like this setup is that all the lines are pre-made and their individual lengths look to be workable for this build.

I looked into using a hydraulic hand brake/parking brake kit, https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C1GGRV_enUS751US751&ei=toGbXrmVGanN0PEPlYOM-AQ&q=hydraulic+parking+brake+kit&oq=hydraulic+parking+kit&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQARgAMgYIABAHEB4yBggAEA0QHjIICAAQBxAFEB4yCAgAEAgQDRAeMgUIABDNAjIFCAAQzQIyBQgAEM0COgQIABBHOggIABAIEAcQHlCQfVj6iwFgu50BaABwAngAgAFuiAHHBZIBAzIuNZgBAKABAaoBB2d3cy13aXo&sclient=psy-ab but it also could fail and my car would/could roll off on its own. So I think its best to rig up a mechanical handbrake.
 
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Taking a closer look at the rear caliper, it looks like there is a cable connection.
If the rear caliper is dual functioning, i.e. hydraulic and cable, that would solve the hand/parking brake situation.

It doesn't say anything in the description about being cable operated.
But the connection is definitely there.

https://www.monsterscooterparts.com/med ... 7142_1.jpg

What I might do is use this setup, with the three discs, (2 in front, 1 in rear) and see how it works.
If the rear, in fact, can be cable actuated then I think its a win-win option to buy. I'll sleep on it.

Question:
This may be a redundant question, but I wanted more filler text.:)
Assuming I use just one disc in the rear, which axle would be best. Roadside or shoulder side.
I'm thinking of roadside to ensure better continuous traction.
 
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If your worried about the hydraulic system failing then install an equalizer switch as every car on the road has. It connects between the two separate systems (front/back) then if one fails it closes the port so it disables the fluid from actuating the failed section (front/back)
My setup has the two hydraulic calipers on the rear and a mechanical caliper on the front.
 
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A weighty issue

I put the car on the scales (with spacers) and these are the numbers. LF 75....RF....65....LR 182.5....RR....181.5...Total 504 LBS. The steering column/box weighs 8 lbs, so that should account for most of the difference left to right.

I'm stirred but not shaken, that the weight has jumped up that much. But it will be what it will be. At least it's not near the 800 +/- lbs that the average golf cart weighs.
If the choice of motors and battery are correct/sufficient, then there won't be any problem with the weight.
It rolls super easy 'in the shop' . Outside on the road is another story.

With this much weight, (504 lbs) plus more to come, I wouldn't want to trust bicycle brakes. What I may do is buy a second caliper, disc, hose and 'T' connector for the rear. Then I can 'T' off the first rear hose. Doing that would also add a second hand/parking brake capability.

There's another issue with the placement of the hoses. It may be nothing but something my good eye caught. Looking at their picture, the hoses connected to the two lower ports do not go to the front two brakes. WHY? One hose goes to one front brake, the other hose goes to the rear brake. I would think that both the bottom ports would be for the front brakes, and the single port would be for the rear brake. Unless there is some internal plumbing that makes their connection correct.
They may have done it just for the photoshoot as well.
 
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If you T off to another calliper remember that the original master cylinder now has to move enough fluid to power that too. You may need to go bigger on the master to keep the correct ratio.
 
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If you T off to another calliper remember that the original master cylinder now has to move enough fluid to power that too. You may need to go bigger on the master to keep the correct ratio.
True, but the total distance/fluid amount will be minimal. Maybe a couple of feet.
I believe that's the reason why hydraulics is the better choice....isn't it?
Probably less than an ounce of fluid. Just a guess.
 
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