Ed's 'StreetRunner' Quad Build

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Wiring diagram looks good!
Just one thought on the volt indicator unit....

If you are using this to display the status of the main battery bank, then it may not work as intended.
Since you are measuring 12v from the step-down inverter, it will always show 12v, even with your bank highly depleted.

Think of it like this...

I can only lift 200 pounds flat out. I would consider myself tired if I could only lift 150 pounds.
But give me a 4x lever (48v to 12v), and even tired, I could still lift 600 pounds.

See where I am going with that?
Your full bank should show almost 51 volts when healthy, but the 12v side will easily show full output even fed with 40 volts (completely dead bank).

Brad
Hi Brad

I sorta thought about this, before purchasing the 5-gang switch panel. I understood that the panel I wanted came with the 12v-24v voltmeter, so knew it wouldn't work for the 48 volt system. And there may be a possibility it may not be used.

My thinking was; I need a volt/capacity meter, in addition to the one on the battery pack.
Reason being, the one on the pack won't be seen, once I get the console cover installed.
Though I suppose I could, remove it from it's present location, and install it, up on the console....hmmmmm. I'll have to think about that.

Anyway, I bought the linked voltmeter, to do that.


The voltmeter, on the 5-gang switch panel, only meters 12v-24v. Now this may be where my logic, won't work. The output for the dc-dc converter, brings the voltage down to +/- 12v, so the switch panel voltmeter, would show what voltage, that is coming out of the converter.

Since you are measuring 12v from the step-down inverter, it will always show 12v, even with your bank highly depleted.
Based on your statement, maybe not ????? This is a dc-dc converter, which is supposed to convert 48 volts, down to 12 volts. This being the case, then I gather, there is no true way to measure/monitor the 'output', of the converter.

Am I supposed to take it, that the converter is actually working correctly, and just putting out the correct 12 volts? How do I check to see if it is working correctly?

If not, then I'm only out a few dollars, and I will probably remove the voltmeter, in the switch panel, and use that space for the key ignition.

Thanks for jumper-ing in...(no pun intended)...well maybe.
 
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Brad is correct. The voltmeter will display the voltage of what it is connected to. In this case, it will be connected to the 12V line. If it displayed current, which requires a shunt through which all current must pass, you would be able to see what current is being drawn from the 12V supply. However, the voltage it displays will always be 12V until the 48V supply is no longer able to supply enough to run the convertor so it can do its job.

You can see the meter I used at: https://www.banggood.com/PZEM-021-4-in-1-LCD-Voltage-Current-Active-Power-Energy-Meter-Blue-Backlight-Panel-p-1111790.html?rmmds=buy&cur_warehouse=CN. I now use 3 of them: 1 for the main 12.6V battery discharge, 1 for solar generation charging and 1 for the main e-Assist battery.

Funny, while I was typing this, I realized that my 12.6V connection will always show 12V as it is charged via a step-down from the 42V e-Assist battery. However, I can switch/disconnect this battery from the step-down and then it will show the 12.6V battery reserve voltage and its discharge current.
 
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It's alive!, It's alive! ...well not quite yet...but soon. 😲

My terminal blocks and switches are supposed to arrive tomorrow.
So I've spent most of my day, working on updating, the wiring diagram.
My eyes are seeing double and triple and all colors of the rainbow.

It's getting more cluttered, but I think I've got it correct. I still wonder whether I should/need relays at any point.
Maybe a larger fuze...40 vs 30 amp?
And trying think if there is anything else I'm forgetting, or don't know about ????

I'm hearing (seeing) a VROOOMMMM in the near future
 
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Houston, this is Cap-Com, you are go for launch.
 
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It's Raining! ... It's Pouring! ... The Old Man is ...Drawing!

Thanks for the feedback, Danny.
Looks like all systems are 'GO' for hook up.

Just a little something I thought up last night.
During the course of designing and building,
I want to have many different points of interest so to speak.
Much rather in my mind, the interest is in the details.

 
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A film of the inaugural flight is mandatory of course Ed'. :)
 
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Don't forget the drag-'chutes and the escape pod. :ROFLMAO:
I won't need a chute. There will be two, foot holes in the floor, for emergency 'foot braking'.
But the escape pod, now that idea did escape my thinking. I have an extra switch, so maybe that is an option.
Didn't '007', James Bond, have one?

 
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Maybe a larger fuze...40 vs 30 amp?
Add up the individual 12V current demands and then add a few % for a margin. I don't know if there is any standard margin to be applied but you don't want the fuse to exactly match the current draw. If you have only one fuse you lose everything if it blows. If it happens at night, you won't have a light to see with. You may want to separately fuse some things. What can you least do without?
 
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And I suppose you have set aside some room in it for at least one coffee cup holder? That's something I forgot.
Without a doubt. And each one comes with a cup warmer.

While I'm here, I might as well give a brief update.

I installed two of the new terminal blocks, this morning.
These TB's are much better. The result is much cleaner,
with additional spaces for future needs.
A better picture later.

But as you can see, there is a bunch wiring, that closely resembles our LA freeways.

I wanted to start putting together some of the other components but quickly found that there is a disparity between wiring color coding. So I have abandoned the attempt, while I draw up an additional diagram, showing where the remaining controller wires go, and which colors they may change to, in their journey to their terminal block.



Also, the wiring harness they gave me, really wasn't working for my use, while all bundled up.
So off came the wrapping and now they are all sorted out, each waiting for their assignments.

I will use them as they are, w/connectors, or modify to need.
I will reuse the wire wrapping, as necessary.

 
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It's been a few days since posting, but with the flood and all, I've done little.

I have received my 5-gang switch panel and voltage gauge.
I have got the new terminal blocks wired in.
I have corrected a couple of wiring errors.
I have performed a function check of both motors, and both throttle types, foot, and hand.
I haven't ruined or damaged anything...yet. :)

Today I've been working on a mock-up, battery cover/console.
Not what I had in mind, when originally designing, this car.
But the design has to evolve as the need arises.

This is but the first design and the most practical.
It's quite boxy, so it needs some contrasting pockets, holes, do-dads.....you get the idea.
I'm initially thinking of upholstering the sides with a contrasting tan fabric.
Or red sides, and wood grain in the center.
May even make it out of metal.
I will dwell on the design in hopes of fancying it up somewhat.




Three different heights.





Moved the voltage gauge to the front.

 
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Sloping, tapering, or rounding the panels can make a heck of a difference.
Right you are. This version is better.

I had an art teacher tell me that, sometimes it's what you leave out that makes the picture.
So I'm being careful not to be tempted to put too much into/on the console.

There needs to be a speedometer, in there someplace.
Maybe something like this.

https://www.wish.com/product/5865fed5bea7bd4cb994d33a?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=US&_force_currency_code=USD&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=5865fed5bea7bd4cb994d33a&ad_cc=US&ad_curr=USD&ad_price=27.00&campaign_id=7203534630&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItuif0p-j6AIVDdlkCh29hw85EAQYAyABEgJRVvD_BwE&share=web

But I do agree, about the sloping, tapering, and rounding bit. Just making those elements
attractive in the final piece requires some thought.



I've curved the side panel up just a bit, to the firewall.



 
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I needed to see what the new console looked like with the body on.
Also how much legroom, remained with this design.

Also, worked on the visibility problem. Between my height and how the top is designed, I couldn't see straight out the front.
These pictures don't show the change, but with fiddling with the angle of the dangle, I settled on raising the front, two inches, which makes very little change in the overall appearance of the car. I lowered the seat height to its finished height +/-. It will also give me an attaching point for the required rearview mirror, and wiper motor. I wonder if I can get away with using a hand-operated wiper. I see a lot of them for sale. Maybe not legal for the street. I haven't checked yet.



This type of 'hot rod' isn't made for creature comfort. But I'm not really uncomfortable,
though I'm seeing more of my knees than I would normally like.
Also, the time is near to think about installing the steering column/wheel.
Will probably use a removable steering wheel and/or a tilting column.



The verdict is still out whether to use the 5-gang switch panel. I'm not sure what it is,
but my gut tells me it isn't right. Maybe something else should be used.



As you can see in the next two pictures, there's little room, in the motor compartment.


 
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And for the steering design.

Like I mentioned I'm working on how to make the steering linkage, (for the steering column/box).
I'm trying to fabricate something simple without the bulk of bolting on an actual steering box.

I think I have got the main idea down on paper, and all the levers going in the right direction.
I don't want to turn the wheel left and end up in the creek on the right... 😬

In the drawing below, you are looking straight down, over the top of the frame rail.
The mechanism is actually bolted to the sides (left & right), but the working parts are situated underneath the bottom of the frame rail.

 
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Getting closer to the day when you will have to look for another project.

That console looks to be more than a little out of reach in the driving position. I would think that if a manually operated wiper is deemed illegal for your intended use, it would not be the only thing.
I guess I wasn't considering that when I made the comment.
So I guess I'll be using that extra switch I have.

I should be able to meet all the requirements 'as listed'. What concerns me is the 'read between the lines', opinions of the DMV person, that is deciding if it meets the requirements or not. It won't be the first time I have had to educate the DMV personnel, about their job and what they are wanting to do, is not correct, a waste of my time, and a waste of my money. Sorry, you hit a nerve there.
 
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