Doug's Warrior Plan Questions 5 - Brake Support Tubes / Steering Tabs

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dklawson

New member
Sorry, I am an engineer and the part dimensions and part location dimensions in the plans are presented in a confusing way.

Pages 121 & 122, Figures 141 & 142 (Under Seat Steering)
The position of the under seat head tube is given as "10 inches". From where to where?
The plans dimension the location from an implied point on the frame boom to the circumference of an un-dimensioned circle (the short head tube).
I assume the left hand arrowhead is pointing at the implied intersection of the seat back tube and frame boom.
The right hand arrowhead appears to be pointing to the OD of the short head tube. Is that correct or is it to the center of the head tube diameter?

Likewise, Page 131, Diagram 7 (brake tubes and steering tabs)
The plans say the tubes are 3/4" square, 4.25" long. Diagram 7 implies the tube length is before one end is modified with a fish mouth cut. Is that correct?.
Also....
The tabs shown in diagram 7 are implied to be as wide as the tube is square (3/4") with a full radius end.
The through-hole for the rod end is dimensioned as 1/2" from the radius end.
The hole cannot be located 1/2" from the end AND simultaneously in the center of the full radius end.
I plan to use 3/4" wide by 1/8" thick tabs and position the rod end hole in the center of the full radius end. That will position the hole 1.75" from the "bottom edge" of the brake tubes as shown in diagram 7.

Does anyone have comments about what worked for them?
 
"will be placed under the frame boom at a distance of 10 inches from the rear end"

I took the rear end to mean the part of the frame where you capped the tube.

The steering tube is usually 1 to 1.125 in in diameter. If you measured to the center or the OD, you only have a difference of a half in or so and the instructions say you can play with the position and see what works.

For the brake arms, i did 4.25 in, the fish mouth doesn't really shorten it, the top of the tube was 4.25 and some material was cut from the bottom so it fit and stays straight.

The tabs, i used 1/4 in flat bar 1 in wide. It made it easier to use flat bar that was 1 in wide, that way I just cut it to length. I made the hole the same size as the bolt, 3/8th in. I drilled the hole, then rounded the ends. The location of the hole i found by making sure worked with the spherical rod end and didnt inhibit its movement. The rods that connect to them are adjustable, so again there is some leeway.

I would be worried 1/8th in thick would bend and flex under the stress.
 
Thanks Thom.

I appreciate the quote from the plans. I have read over various sections multiple times and still managed to miss that statement.

I know at several places the plans suggest experimenting with various dimensions to get an assembly we are happy with. However, I am hesitant to deviate in several places at the same time.

I will place several of the features where you suggested. Thanks again for the information and sharing your experience.
 
Thom, I also have a question unrelated to the steering.

It looks like you made a seat to the style shown in the plans. How comfortable do you find that seat?
My hope is to get my wife to occasionally use the trike I am building so I was considering making a wider seat and I would appreciate your comments.
 
I didn't put the quote to be a smart ass, i did it because i wasnt sure if you read them and thought something different than I did. When i zoomed in on the picture on that page just now there is a black line on the frame about in the center of the steering tube. I'm not sure if thats what its for or unrelated, i did the OD.

As for experimenting, i didn't want to either. i like to follow the plans the first time so if there's an issue i don't have to rule out if it was my changes. What i did in places like this was clamp as much stuff in place as i could to see if it worked, if i couldn't clamp it, i tacked it. I did it with the brake supports and steering rods, to make sure they cleared the frame, etc.

I do have the standard seat in the plans, i used half in birch plywood. I am thinking of building the mesh kind, but i wasn't honestly sure how the bike would even work at all, so i didnt want to commit to building more than necessary until I could test ride it. i couldn't find how thick of wood to use anywhere so that was .50" is what i had on hand. I used a yoga mat like neoprene, i could only find half inch thick so i layered it up to one inch using contact cement and I went on the first test ride. It felt ok, however i have a vertebra that sticks out about midway down my spine, it only hurts when i try to push it back in or if something puts a lot of pressure on it, and the seat did, so I added a half in thick strip on the back support part only, that run from the top to the bottom, and about 2 in wide. It created a valley and keeps my spine off the seat. The only issue i have with it now is if I'm wearing a belt and riding i can feel the pressure from it, which isn't really the seats fauly. I was surprised how comfortable it actually is, i kinda feel like you sink in a little and it just holds you sung into place.

Be careful of what you wish for, Since i finished my first trike, my gf tried it and has been using it when we go out, so now I'm making her one. During the last 3 or so rides, after being on a normal bike, i went back out on the trike and when i started riding i thought oh wow this seat does feel good. I have the plans and material (emt) to make the mesh seats. Menards had a conduit bender on clearance so I'm thinking over winter this year i might make the mesh seats, but if i do i want to be able to change it back if i want. I also saw these hard shell plastic seats on ebay for 140.00 i was thinking about trying one, but that's fairly expensive for my budget.

(and just for personal safety, you may want to delete that wider seat for the Mrs. comment above, that kinda thing can get a guy killed)
 
"... wider seat for the Mrs. comment above, that kinda thing can get a guy killed "

For most couples that is probably true. However, when I put my upright bike on a training stand to get some exercise during Covid my wife asked me to buy a wider seat for it.

I cut the plywood this morning and I did make it wider. If I decide later to go with the narrower seat I can always make a new one.

Incidentally, how do your neck and head feel after a ride? I have not put the upper support tube on the frame yet (for the top seat panel). I have only sat on the trike with the bottom board and back board attached. My head and neck have no support. I know the plans mentioned something about head rests not working because of the bouncy ride. I'm curious what others have done about this.

"I didn't put the quote to be a smart ass.... "
The thought never crossed my mind. I was serious in my reply. I had read and re-read that part of the plans and managed to miss the location text each time.

Thanks for you comments!
 
Never had a headrest on a recumbent. My neck hurts more after riding a racing type bike with turning my head up from the floor.
 
I used 1.5 in tube for the back support, i had a long enough piece and didn't see the reason in making it smaller. I believe it's a right angle to the wheel supports and it feels good.

I sat on my bike when i was making it and i was worried about the lower ab muscles required and the same about my neck, if i needed something to hold it or would it be like a situp and be tense and get tired and it really doesn't bother me at all. I have never noticed my neck tired or sore at all, its like sititng in a chair i dont really notice my neck doing anything
 
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