Another FWD Delta trike.

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Dan

Another problem solved , nice

Paul
 
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Another little bit of silliness today (just because we can). :D
With the TIG welder out of service at the moment I decided to make a little brace for the rack to prevent the load on the rack potentially spreading the rack apart.
Normally the bottom of a rack would be bolted to the rear-wheel drop-outs and this "spreading" would not be a problem. But with this area of the rack suspended and hanging there in space there is nothing to bolt it to, so another solution had to be found.
So I got "lathe-boy" out of the cupboard where I normally keep him in his gimp-suit and he turned a section of 8mm steel bar down to 6mm at either end and threaded the ends.
Once cleaned up of all the oil & grease and slapped around with a hairy-stick and some hammerite the job was all done.

 
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Lathe-Boy escaped his chains today and donned his gimp mask safety-squint and made this little beauty (the dull thing, not the shiny things).

What is it? ...I hear you all ask.

It is an alignment tool. It is some 8mm bar stock that has been threaded and then counterbored with a 5mm hole.
Its purpose is to take the place of one of the index pins so that the receiving hole on the inner section of tube is drilled at exactly the right place and the little "pip" of the index pin can locate in the hole.

 
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go Lathe-boy go !

I must say I almost understood it as well....

paul
 
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I have been unable to do any bike building recently because:
a) My welder was broken.
b) I needed to paint my house.

Today I managed to get a little bit of time in the "shop" and I can report that the expanding/shrinking rear axle is coming along OK.
The inner/outer tubes of the rear axle do reluctantly slide in/out (friction) and the index pins will work very well.
I think I will obtain a minimum total width of 26" (fully collapsed) and have the ability to extend the rear track to a maximum of 32" (if required).
I trimmed the tabs on which the hubs are mounted down to a 35mm width to match the tube to which they will be welded.
Here you can see the index-pin for the Right hand side on the 38.1mm x1.5mm outer tube and the ground-down 35mm x 2mm inner tube section and one of the mounting tabs for the drum hub.

 
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Dan

Nice you are back ?

i thought the lockers went through the corners ?

Paul
 
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Dan

Nice you are back ?

i thought the lockers went through the corners ?

Paul
I put them on a flat face just inside the corner of the inner tube of the pair.
If they had been handwheels providing a friction lock then yes I would put them diagonally on a corner.
As they are effectively just there to prevent lateral movement and there will be a lot of interference load on the tubes and they are pins that go through both tube faces (outer tube + Inner one) just "indexing" is required I think. When I look into the outer tube I can see the index pin protruding about 4mm through the inside face, so it only has to go through the <2mm of the wall of the inner tube to lock it in place.
 
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A little bit of progress to help alleviate the doom & gloom.
I welded the hub-mounting tabs to the axle inserts (one yesterday, and one today).

With the axle fully collapsed I have a track width of around 23 & 1/2 ", so it is narrow enough to go through my side gate.



With it extended out to have only 1/2 the tube of each half-shaft engaged in the main tube I get a track of over 31.5".
As it can be adjusted and index pinned wherever I want to make holes for the index pin I will be able to have it adjustable in increments to suit my needs.

The outer tube is 18" long and each "Half-Shaft" goes in around 9" fully collapsed and only 5" in when fully extended.

I was concerned about some apparent toe-in issues but to be honest is doesn't look that bad to me at this stage for either toe-in/out or camber.

 
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Dan

Nice work that man !

Although I think you need to visit Specsavers ?

Looks like 23.25" to me , my laddie ?

Paul
 
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Dan

Nice work that man !

Although I think you need to visit Specsavers ?

Looks like 23.25" to me , my laddie ?

Paul
Yes, it may well be. The placement of the rule on the tyres cause them to rotate so having only 1 hand available (camera in the other) it kept moving about.
I thought I saw 23 &1/2 but by the time the shutter went it had changed.
 
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A lovely Sunny day, so I thought I would spoil myself and put heavy and sweaty clothing on and do some welding. ;)
Here is the Big-boy's trike assembled a little bit more.

This is the view from the back, and the axle-inserts are fully in to the minimum track width (remeasured and is indeed 59cm or 23 and 1/4", for those of a doubting disposition).
Yes! I can step over the spine (that's a relief).


The bad news.....
I will have to reduce the "minimum track" even further to get through the gate as there is a further impediment at that pinch-point.

But this is a simple operation, so no real harm incurred.

That's all folks.
 
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Dan

Looking good , going where no man has gone before ...

Paul
 
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They say you should never let a good-idea go "un-plagiarised", and so having had a long chat with Paul about "how" to get short-little-legs around a big 24" wheel there seemed to be two clear alternatives:
  1. Make your own triangle up from scratch and have all the worry about just "how" to avoid chainline to frame interference. Or..
  2. Use a pre-made triangle swiveled around to put the BB in the optimum "short-legs" position and marry up to it with additional frame elements.
So here is a pre-made frame with some "additional" drop-outs and frame members overlaid on top.
Where the piece of strap/bar is located is where additional frame elements would be added for strengthening and stress-relief of the original frame's drop-out to "stay" elements.
This would provide an interference-free chainline with the BB shell located pretty-much where I need it to be. :)




Now it is easier to do if you turn the frame over and have the BB shell threads the wrong way around. But I suppose one could locktite them in place to avoid any issues?
What do you think?

Should be reasonably easy to do.
 
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Now it is easier to do if you turn the frame over and have the BB shell threads the wrong way around. But I suppose one could locktite them in place to avoid any issues?
What do you think?
Dan

What does turning the frame over bring to the party ?

Paul
 
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Hi Paul,

Thinking a bit more about it I guess it does more harm that good.
One the plus side I can see it would make the attachment of the required additional plates & frame a bit easier... but it completely knackers the use of the front changer post.
So we won't be doing that then. :)

As you were, forget I asked. :ROFLMAO:
 
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So after some tooth-sucking, whistling and shuffling from foot to foot we are here.
Those drop-out inserts in that frame are contoured and not flat. So plan-B might be to just cut them off in a straight line across the top of that box-section and weld that stub of plate to the top inside corner of the box-section. That is not my preference as it may be weak. But let's wait and see. The BB would end up at about the right position (11 or 1 O' Clock depending which side you are viewing from).

 
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Dan

Ok a bit confusing as to were the seat will be in relation to the picture on the left ?

Can I suggest you drill some new holes in the seat & chains stays then strip the paint from the existing holes and weld them up ?

Python number one broke across one of those holes....

Paul
 
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Dan

Ok a bit confusing as to were the seat will be in relation to the picture on the left ?

Can I suggest you drill some new holes in the seat & chains stays then strip the paint from the existing holes and weld them up ?

Python number one broke across one of those holes....

Paul
Paul,
Agree that the overall relationships of seat/pedals etc. are not clear and good point about the frames rusting through/cracking at the "vent-holes".

I need some "domestic management" agreement to the annexation of the dining room table so I can map it out. Or, I will cut the frame silhouette out in paper and pin it to the wall in the mini-barn. :)
 
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Dan

Very hard to repair to





Paul
 
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I need some "domestic management" agreement to the annexation of the dining room table so I can map it out. Or, I will cut the frame silhouette out in paper and pin it to the wall in the mini-barn. :)
Not sure why you need to do this ?

You already show pictures of the rear frame where you can sit on it ?
So why not just build simple wooden frame that can support the front end in the desired position ?



This one is useful as it can hold up a pivoting front end should you nee to work on it ?

or
Even simpler




Saves having to measure and draw most of an already existing frame ?

Paul
 
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