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Looks like that is coming along real nice Buddy! Wish I could come over and see it in person.:(

Looking good there! I'm just having my morning coffee and surfing this site. On your first post you spun your shaft with a bench grinder...assuming it does 3450 rpm, that would be 266.26 mph using 26x2.125 wheels and tires! 😲

Take a long straight edge and lay it cross the two plates. The plates should be on the same plane, as in parallel to the straight edge, not the floor. The angles will change as you steer but the rod end should make up the small difference. As long as it does not bind you are good!

You could easily attach another cable to the shift lever and run it up to a remote indicator conveniently mounted somewhere.

I have a variable speed grinder that I use when wire wheeling. The wheel works just as well and loses far less wires!

Tom texted his neighbor Bob and said " Bob, I really feel BAD! I have been tapping your wife while you are away on business trips. It's been going on for almost two years and my conscience is bugging me. I felt you should know." Bob goes into a fit of rage and immediately strangles his wife to...

So the single jackshaft/dual freewheel setup does operate like a limited slip diff then. The only drawbacks are the additional weight and frictional losses. These drawbacks would not be an issue on a trike that is going to be powered with a mid-drive motor.:)

Just curious, if the inside wheel spins due to low traction, why would the outside wheel not kick in when wheel rpm is matched?

Are you trying to use a 15" steel car rim with the center section removed so you can add spokes??

Just for purely theoretical purposes, I would argue that this setup should work fabulously. It would have equal power to both wheels while going in a straight line. When cornering, the outside wheel would freewheel and only the inside wheel would be under power, unless...the inside wheel loses...

Wow! I think this kid's parents came home from vacation to find their car up on jack stands and the motor off the tiller missing. LOL.

7018 is also a "low hydrogen" rod and MUST be kept dry in order to perform properly. 6010,11 and 13 are much more forgiving. https://beginnerweldingguide.com/keep-welding-rods-dry/

I think I just answered my own dumb question!:rolleyes:

I just received the news letter about doing a video bike build. I assume that is your wife Kathy on the blue long wheelbase....it appears to have a left side drive complete with multiple freewheel and derailleur. Is this correct..or could it be a flipped negative that produced this photo...

I don't think it works like that. there is no "locking" mechanism. Each side operates independently. You can coast down a steep hill faster than you are pedaling so either (outside) wheel should be able to spin faster in a turn than the input (which would be powering the inside wheel). I am not...

I would center punch the spot where the 5/8" or 3/4" axle hole will be. Then I would use a set of dividers to mark the outside circumference of the flange. Center the scrap flange on this, clamp it and drill away. there would be no need to center punch the 18 spoke locations if using the old...

An easy way to make the hub flanges would be to clamp a scrap bicycle flange to your 12 gage blank and use it as a template for drilling the holes.

Hello All. I have repaired the handlebar stem with some heavier wall tubing (1/2" gas pipe) and made it adjustable. Overall, I think Hugh did a pretty decent job on this bike. I have had no trouble riding it, and this is the first recumbent I have EVER ridden! It is definitely a little different...