Warrior trike build: weight -vs- strength testing

Adding suspension will usually take stresses off the chassis as the spring(s) absorb them.

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A variation on a warrior back end but with suspension. The swing arm is from a cheap mtb. This adds 6 to 8 inch to the length. Note that because the pivot is nowhere near the chain run then the preload has to be wound up beyong the ability of your legs to compress. Pedalling action wants to pull the rear wheel forward. This limits the suspension but still covers the bigger shocks. It'd be no use with a mid drive adding it's effort to the task. There are better ways to suspend the rear.
 
... or perhaps a "Streetwarrior"

I was thinking of a frame pivot point created from a bottom bracket. The bottom bracket would also create a jackshaft. If that could be implemented the trike would have two separate chains (front and rear) instead of one very long chain like the Warrior has.
 
Apologies again to the OP for my thread hijack.

I received and installed my Shimano MT201 hydraulic disk brakes. I have only ridden about 5 miles with them so far. However, the brakes now "feel better"... more balanced and smooth. The only problem I had was having to shim the caliper mounts a bit. I'm not sure why that was necessary but it was easily handled.

Now I need to install a parking brake. At the moment I'm using a Velcro strap to secure one brake lever in the stop location. It works but I don't want to leave the hydraulic seals under pressure routinely.
 
Rear wheel rim or disk operated by a cable friction gear shifter is the oft used method. A friction shifter could be mounted almost anywhere and will hold sufficiently for parking.
 
The only friction shifters I have are still on my 40+ year old street bike. I am considering other options.

Today I spent an hour or so looking at the new hydraulic brakes and what I have available to make a parking brake. My plan at this point is to mount one of my old locking cable brake levers on the handlebars and run its cable to the back of the trike where it will actuate a cable-type caliper against a 160mm disk.

Weather permitting, I will soon start fabricating some items and temporarily fit the various parts.
 
Update:
Try as I might over the past two weeks, I was never happy with my trike's parking brake. In the end I bought the cheapest cable operated disc brake caliper and friction shifters that I could buy. I installed those along with a used 160mm disk and now have a functional parking brake for about $35. I should have listened to Popshot weeks ago.
 
It should be pretty obvious that grafting the rear swing arm assembly from the Streetfox to the Warrior will lessen the shock load stress on the frame to quite an extent. At least the roads around here are not really suitable for a rigid frame. When you think about it, even train cars have springs in their suspensions and they generally ride on a much smoother surface. So as for me, I will be making most any and all changes to the suspension that are practical to make, even if it adds a pound or two to the trike. I'm sure that we can come up with a suitable name for the "new" machine? Street Warrior seems a little trite as I am all about smoothing things out and not causing a hiccup with names.
 
The biggest thing with a suspended rear is that only about a third of your weight is on that wheel. As such the benefits from a comfort point of view are limited. Suspending the front will give a much greater benefit but is also much harder to do. The best method I've seen involves sprung wishbones made of fibreglass or carbon fibre.
 
Popshot-
I am just starting the Streetfox/Warrior build, so any advice is most welcome! So far all I have managed to do is order the two front hubs and scavenge the rear end off an old 10 speed which I hope to modify into a workable 700C version of the rear end of a mountain bike frame.
But however limited the comfort level might be on this rear only suspension- ALA Streetfox, it should work to limit the shock loads on my trike frame. Another factor for me will be the seat frame and full sling seat I will be using. I got this idea from Recycled Recumbents where he offers free plans for the seat frame including the printable templates. I ended up making one of these and I have to say it's better than anything I have ever sat on including my own easy chair at home! This seat is not hinged in the middle, however, the overall angle can be adjusted by sliding the frame cross members along the backbone of the typical AZ main tube and clamping it down.

But just so you get the correct idea here- this one piece seat is not the one he uses on most of his clone bikes. The Mach 1,2 and 3 all use a two piece seat for the more conventional upright seating position of these three great designs.

However- I was intrigued by this set of templates and the smooth curves it imparts to the seat fabric.

Luckily I already had a seat cover from a genuine ICE Sprint trike, and from there it was mostly trial and error with my EMT bender tool and some lengths of 1/2" and 3/4" conduit from Home Depot. I really did struggle with the larger diameter EMT and trying to fabricate two identical U shaped cross members for the "spreader bars"

At any rate, if you ever get a chance to experience one of these seats in person, you will never want to go back to whatever you had on any of your recumbents!

In fact, I am mostly building the tadpole just to take advantage of this seat design to it's fullest extent. When I finished my wife's Timberwolf, this seat and frame went straight onto her delta trike. She loves it, and she is pretty hard to please, so RR and I are very well pleased with the results, but now my super seat is bolted to her Timberwolf and I'm sure she would not be too happy to give it back any time soon.!!!
 
To improve the chainline on that Tomafox , it just needs an extra chainwheel in/on the pivot.
The biggest thing with a suspended rear is that only about a third of your weight is on that wheel. As such the benefits from a comfort point of view are limited. Suspending the front will give a much greater benefit but is also much harder to do. The best method I've seen involves sprung wishbones made of fibreglass or carbon fibre.
Do you have some examples? I am not above trying something unique if it does not weigh a ton.
 
... or perhaps a "Streetwarrior"

I was thinking of a frame pivot point created from a bottom bracket. The bottom bracket would also create a jackshaft. If that could be implemented the trike would have two separate chains (front and rear) instead of one very long chain like the Warrior has.

That's a great idea! It works well for a tadpole trike arrangement as the chains can be run on adjacent rings of the same side of the swing arm.
That reduces the very long chain run on the Warrior and eliminates the need for another idler wheel. But did you actually build a Warrior with this feature? It might reqiure a special gear cluster to get something like a 1:1 ratio, as anything else might complicate the gearing overall.
 
The biggest thing with a suspended rear is that only about a third of your weight is on that wheel. As such the benefits from a comfort point of view are limited. Suspending the front will give a much greater benefit but is also much harder to do. The best method I've seen involves sprung wishbones made of fibreglass or carbon fibre.
It's probably quite different on a tadpole trike without front suspension than it is on my long wheelbase Delta trike without front suspension. I have the seat about 75% to the rear of the wheelbase and there are two shocks and a swingarm there, so most of the roughness of the road is taken care of by that.

So are you saying that it's not really much help to run a rear suspension on a tadpole trike such as the Streetfox?

And likewise, if you rode both the warrior and the streetfox on a semi- rough surface, you could hardly tell the difference?
 
No. The suspended rear does make a difference. A suspended front would act on a greater % of your weight but is much harder to do. It can be done but afds complexity and weight.
 
Popshot- Thanks for the insight. It's been a long time since I got on here trying to research the inns and outs of recumbents and I know you have been at this for quite a while, so your opinions are highly valuable to me. I can see how having a fully suspended machine of any description would necessarily add some weight and complexity. There is no getting around that. And another factor that we all have to consider at some point is that we all age and eventually will not want the wear and tear that a heavier machine would impose on our bodies.
So that being acknowledged, the next obvious step is to go electric.

I'm just guessing, but that change would probably add 20-40 pounds of weight to the frame in some fashion. At least that is what I have seen with the one home brew example that has temporarily crossed my path.

This was in the form of a Hyper Havoc bicycle with a 1000 watt rear wheel motor and a lipo battery that was heavy and mounted high on the rear luggage rack. This made riding fairly risky on the mount and dismount because of the strange center of gravity being so high and far to the rear. I'm sure that the motor in the rear wheel had to weigh 20 pounds and the batttery was about the same. It would have been much better if there was a way to mount the battery down low, but on that small bike (26") aluminum suspension frame, there just was nowhere else to mount such a beast. The battery was approximately 12" long, 8" wide and 10 inches high, almost the same size as a car 12 volt lead acid, and it weighed almost as much.

However, it was powerful and fast, so I did not want to just throw it in the trash bin. I had all but sworn off "wedgie" bikes so I gave it to a friend who fabricates electric wedgies and pretty much had forgotten about it.

In the meantime, I had been minding my own business and tweaking the seat on my own non-electric delta, trying my best to cure my aching arse. The tweaking on the seat frame was s-l-o-w-l-y showing me that there is no substitute for a more laid back seating position regardless of what form the seat base took. Right now the seat base is a foam pad over plywood and this combination is supported inside the chromolly seat frame which is also the backbone of the delta trike, so there is little to no way to get this combination laid back short of getting out the hacksaw and welder, moving the shock mounts and trying again. This is about the third time I have done this, and this last iteration reclined the seat back another 1 3/4" which is starting to make the body weight feel more evenly distributed. I have not had a chance to do any rides with this configuration as yet except for a very short trip to the mailbox, but even that was a big improvement.
As the weather is changing rapidly here in North Idaho, the good riding times are shrinking fast, so I will force myself to brave the cold and get in a more serious test ride as soon as possible.

If that new reclined position is still not enough, I'm just about frustrated enough to start over and build another delta trike frame similar to the Timberwolf just to get the seat I discovered. Like I said before, that sling seat design from the Recycled Recumbents is the ultimate invention of the 20th century! I know that seat works well on a tadpole trike as well as it is also used on the ICE series of tadpole trikes. Of course they have their own aluminum frame, but the shape and size is the same.

Which brings me to another question! Why don't we pool our design talents and build an electric trike that is fully suspended and designed to work with a hub motor? It could be a tadpole or Delta or one of each.

The only issues I see for the designs are where to put the battery and control box. I just have never seen a home brew machine that really addressed those issues and ended up with something that is "if not beautiful- at least not ugly" and uses off the shelf components.
The addition of the battery and motor are not inconsequential and need to be designed in from the very beginning.
 
A battery will be about 4-5kg and will fit nicely on the front boom. Alternately you can make a carrier for it under the seat on the non chain side. You absolutely do not want it above the rear wheel. Wheel motors are very heavy but a Tongsheng tsdz2 is 3.8kg and a lot nicer to use than the wheel motors.
 
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