Full suspension trike design and build.

With double wishbones the lower arms are always longer than the top. This is to tilt the top inwards as it compresses. This is needed because as you turn hard the outside wheel takes more weight and the suspension is compressed at that side. The chassis has leaned meaning the top and bottom inner pivots have changed their relationship to each other. Getting the top to come inwards works to keep the tyre vertical despite that change in the inner pivots. By making the top even shorter in relation to the bottom you will then introduce negative camber to the outer wheel as it leans in a turn. This puts the wheel at a better angle to the road to avoid the tyre rolling around the rim or worst case being rolled completely off it. Go too far with shortening the top one and the tops of the outer tyre can start to want your leg space depending on the overall track and amount of lock.
 
Emiel said:
No that will make that your wheel will hang over in a corner. Making the bottom one longer makes that it stays upright
Click to expand...
sorry... I mean make the arms the same size but increase the width of the bottom attmenent points OK I see now I needed to see the difference

same length
https://imgur.com/nMU49AT

https://imgur.com/r6AHhZW

Bottom longer

https://imgur.com/9O99IQ5

https://imgur.com/hERSdRa

I understand it. I have another question

Why not a McPherson strut... It simplifies the design. I mean it doesnt look as cool and you cant dial in the camber sure... but how fast is everyone planning on going? is this for a race trike?? just for looks? I mean you guys can't be going that hard around corners. I have made some hard turns on my dad's catrike 700.
 
Last edited:
QueenOfSkulls said:
sorry... I mean make the arms the same size but increase the width of the bottom attmenent points OK I see now I needed to see the difference

same length
https://imgur.com/nMU49AT

https://imgur.com/r6AHhZW

Bottom longer

https://imgur.com/9O99IQ5

https://imgur.com/hERSdRa

I understand it. I have another question

Why not a McPherson strut... It simplifies the design. I mean it doesnt look as cool and you cant dial in the camber sure... but how fast is everyone planning on going? is this for a race trike?? just for looks? I mean you guys can't be going that hard around corners. I have made some hard turns on my dad's catrike 700.
Click to expand...

You answer it yourself. Also it isn't that hard to make. My quad has the same system and it works great.
 
QueenOfSkulls said:
I was looking a grade 9.. I thought was the stuff you are supposed to use for structural
Click to expand...
Grade 2 is the one I opt for for home-welding.
Grade 9 is comparable to grade 5, but with better malability, both Alpha-Beta alloys, stronger than the Grade 2.
But not weldable without a transition to Alpha phase around the welds, making those brittle.
 
maddox said:
Grade 2 is the one I opt for for home-welding.
Grade 9 is comparable to grade 5, but with better malability, both Alpha-Beta alloys, stronger than the Grade 2.
But not weldable without a transition to Alpha phase around the welds, making those brittle.
Click to expand...
Well... I need to design a bike then think about welding AL... Which means I need a proper tig... or I can just steel myself. And do steel frame because a tig welder is pricey and I got a stick buzz box. My nasa certed welder I go to for welding retired.
 
QueenOfSkulls said:
Well... I need to design a bike then think about welding AL... Which means I need a proper tig... or I can just steel myself. And do steel frame because a tig welder is pricey and I got a stick buzz box. My nasa certed welder I go to for welding retired.
Click to expand...
That's a pity. But as Brad -our leader- shows, even an old buzzbox can do well.
 
Some small changes to the plans are made today and yesterday.
I talked with Maddox and badass cycles about the design and materials that we are going to use.

Stainless steel will be normal steel.
Cheaper, but it is also bit lighter.
We will poedercoat the trikes.

The second thing is the mounting of the wheels.
15mm alles and mounted like most other trikes that are on the marked.
Loose one side a bit and you can slide the wheel with axle from the trike.
As soon as i have the model, i will post the images on how it will look and work.

The mounting from the arms will also be a bit different. All tubes from the arms will now be 25mm instead of 25 and 32mm.

We discussed a few details on what things to use, how the make the parts that are adjustable and what materials and if we would use 3d prints.
3D prints will be used the make the front part adjustable. It will be sitting inbetween the 2 tubes that slide in and out to get your pedal position on the right spot. This makes that the paint will be protected and the tube will not change from shape that much.

We talked about more things and we will build them together.
Some parts will be lacer cut and other parts will be made in China.
We will use welding molds to line out the frames before welding.

I also now know how i will make the rear part.
I will start with that design, very soon.

So costs go a bit down, other materials, other wheel mounting, lower weight. Powder coating and mounting for phone, display and other things like lights, fenders and more, straight build into the design.
 
Where to do plan on having the brakes ?

Without some more work the calipers stop you having quick release [ I mean by 1 nut NOT a Q/R ] wheels ?

All sounds really good ......

Paul
 
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