HammerHead Trike - Page 3 of 7

Figure 6

The completed trussed frame is shown in this photo. With the 2 new truss tubes forming a triangle between the main frame and the 90 degree tubes, the completed frame is extremely durable. Without this added frame support tubing, any collision with a single front tire could cause the frame to bend where it is welded at the center head tube.

Figure 7

Now that you have your basic frame completed, it's time to add all the steering parts.

Take the original forks from the mountain bike, or another set of forks that are compatible with the main head tube, and then cut off both legs at the fork stem area as shown in the next photo. Once both fork legs have been removed, grind the fork stem area smooth. This fork stem will carry the gooseneck and handlebars just as it did on the original bike, transferring steering to both front wheels via steering linkages. The plate that will connect both control rods to the left and right forks will also be welded to the lower part of the stub.

Figure 8

To make both wheels turn at the same time from a central set of handlebars, you must fabricate a linked steering system similar to that of any vehicle with two front wheels.

You will need a few inches of 1/8 thick steel plate or flat bar, four small rod ends (ball joints), and two small diameter tubes to act as control rods about 12 inches long as shown in the next photo. The rod ends can be salvaged from a trashed snowmobile, or purchased new from just about any bearing store.

Rod ends are measured by their bolt hold diameter, and the ones I am using are 1/4" in size. Any performance auto dealer should also have something like this in stock. The two 12 inch control rods will have the rod ends connected at each end, and can be any size in the area of 1/2 inch or so. The round tubes I am using are the two halves of the seat stay cut from an old frame.

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You can build it yourself from our easy to follow DIY plans!